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/ 

THE 

BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER: 



frartiral illustrate §mh 



USEFUL EMPLOYMENT OF LEISURE HOURS. 

BY V N ^ 

E. LANDELLS, c 

AUTHOR OE "HOME PASTIME; OR, THE CHILD'S OWN'VoWaslfcfc&fk 



itlj Jpitmerous @ngrabmgs. 



,NEW YORK: 

D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 
346 & 348 BROADWAY, 

1 860. 



,L: 






CONTENTS. 



Introduction . 

PAPER TOYS 

Paper Boat, No. 1 
Paper Boat, No. 2 
Comic Paper Mask 
Pyramidical Hat 
Paper Box . 
Fire Balloon . 
Parachute . 
Kite 

Second Kite - . 
Cloth Kite 
Officer Kite . 

CARDBOARD TOYS 

The Race 

The Fox Hunt . 

The Thaumatrope 

Card Backs 

Pair of Steps 

Horse and Cart 

Soldiers marching out 

Fort 
Rustic Cottage 

BOATS 

Thames Wherry 
Long Boat 
Pleasure Boat 
Sailing Boat 



of 



PAGE 
V 

1 

2 

4 

6 

8 

9 

11 

12 

13 

14 

17 

18 

19 

20 

24 

33 

35 

38 

39 

43 

48 
57 
58 
58 
00 
Gl 



Portsmouth Wherry 
Lugsail . 

Boat with two Lugsails 
Boat with three Lugsails 

CUTTER • 

Model of Cutter • . 

Deck . 

Companion or Binnacle 

Rudder and Tiller 

Windlass and Bitts 

Stands 

Main-mast 

Cross-trees . 

Top-mast 

Bowsprit 

Main-boom 

Gafif . 

Yard 

Standing Rigging 

Dead-eyes 

Fore-stay 

Running Rigging 

The Sails . 

SCHOONER - 
Schooner-Yacht . 
Main and Top-mast 
Square Sails 
Bowsprit, &c. 



PAGE 

. 63 

63 
. 64 

64 
. 65 

66 
. 67 

68 
. 68 

68 
. 69 

69 
. 69 

70 
. 70 

70 
. 70 

71 
. 72 

73 
. 73 

74 
. 78 

81 
. 81 

82 
. 82 

83 



IV 


CONTENTS. 




BRIG 


PAGE 

. 84- 


Rabbit Hutches 


PAGE 

114 


Brig in full sail 


84 


Bird Traps .... 


117 


Main-top 


. 85 


Brick Trap 


118 


Masts 


85 


The Springle 


119 


SHIP 


. 87 


Battledore and Shuttlecock 


122 


Clipper Ship 


87 


Arrow Parachute 


125 


BARK - 


. 88 


Trap, Bat, and Ball . 


126 


Mizen-mast 


88 


Balls .... 


129 


ARCHERY 


. 89 


The Boomerang 


132 


Egyptian Archer 


89 


Golfing .... 


133 


Cross-Bow . . 


. 91 


Hockey or Club 


134 


Common Bow . 


92 


The Sucker 


136 


Arrow . ' . 


. 93 


PRACTICAL PUZZLES 


137 


Target . 


93 


The Chinese Cross 


137 


Position 


. 94 


The Chinese Puzzle . 


139 


Tip-Cat . 


95 


The Maze, or Labyrinth 


141 


Pop-Gun 


. 97 


The Cardboard Puzzle 


142 


Sling 


. . 98 


Moving the Knight over al 




Stilts .... 


. 99 


the Squares alternately 


143 


ANGLING • 


. 101 


The Accommodating Square 


144 


Rods .... 


. 101 


The Divided Garden 


144 


Floats 


. 103 


The Army Square 


145 


Winch .... 


. 104 


The Japan Square Puzzle 


145 


Plumb . 


. 105 


The Square and Circle Puzzle 146 


Fly-Fishing I . 


. 107 


The Puzzle of Fourteen 


147 


Flies 


. 108 


The Card Square 


148 


Green or May-fly . 


. 110 


Puzzle of the Two Fathers 


148 


Great White Moth . 


. Ill 


The Nuns . 


149 


Bee-fly 


. Ill 


The Double-headed Puzzle . 


150 


Stone-fly . 


. Ill 


Cutting out a Cross . 


151 


Grey Drake 


. 112 


Another Cross Puzzle . 
The Glass and CoiiraP 


152 


Red Palmer 


. 112 


152 


Landing Net 


. 113 


Another Glass Puzzle . 


153 



INTRODUCTION. 

This is a boy's book in which the author has tried 
with his pen and pencil, to teach some useful things 
for the pleasant time of play hours. It is a plain 
book, which he hopes will be easily understood by 
any boy old enough to be trusted with such common 
tools as a penknife or a pair of scissors, and still be 
equally suited for the pastime of those who, of riper 
age, aspire to manlier amusement. 

It is commonly supposed that the trade of the toy- 
maker is a frivolous pursuit that has no right to be 
classed in the useful labours of life ; and grave men 
have shaken their heads at the poor toy-maker, not 
because he often and justly may be blamed for a 
great deal of childish work, but by reason that his 
labours can only end in the amusement of children. 
The author thinks differently, and would even venture 
to hint, that if the maker of toys would follow the 
good example of those for whom he makes them, and 
go to school to learn, his trade would stand higher 
amongst ihe useful and dignified callings, and he 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

himself might perhaps in time be joined as a helper to 
the schoolmaster. He will become less frivolous the 
more that grave men look kindly on the labours that 
endeavour to unite instruction with the amusements 
of the juvenile circle. Ours is an attempt in this di- 
rection, and not an aimless one at book-making. 

Many of our young friends have no doubt heard 
their parents join in the lament that has been made 
by some clever men on the general want of knowledge 
of " common things." Grown men, who could talk 
with Virgil or Homer in their own tongues, are igno- 
rant of many things of every-day life, which very 
little children are now taught in play and learn with 
scarcely an effort. It must not be imagined that we 
think lightly of the graver labours of the school-hours 
when boys come to learn Greek and Latin, and the 
other branches of knowledge so necessary to fit them 
to take a place in society as educated men ; we would 
only illustrate the aim of this little book as a teacher 
for the play-hours by putting a question : Who would 
be the more useful person of two cast on Kobinson 
Crusoe's desert island — the man who could only speak 
Greek and Latin, or the boy who, in hour of need, 
would erect a little hut or even construct a boat from 
the lessons learnt in play-hours ? 



INTRODUCTION. VI I 

The boyish days of many of the great men who 
have enlightened the world by their discoveries and 
inventions have been remarkable for the practical bias 
their minds have taken. James Watt, when a boy, 
first discerned the power of steam by watching the 
spout of a common tea-kettle. The great Sir Isaac 
Newton was the first to introduce the paper kite, 
when a little school-boy at Grantham. George Ste- 
phenson, who in our own day has done such great 
things for human progress, was in boyhood always 
making lilliputian mills and clay engines in a small 
stream that ran by his father's cottage. "Whoever 
would be a great inventor to the benefit of humanity 
must begin to learn common things in very early life ; 
for so vast is the accumulation of knowledge heaped up 
by ages and the inventive industry of mankind, that 
if the task of learning be deferred until the business of 
life, with its thousand cares and distractions, begins, 
knowledge cannot ripen enough, even when a long one 
ends, for the harvest of that one ambition which youth 
and men may own without reproach — to be great in 
usefulness in their generation, to their country, and 
to their kind. 

All children in a degree love to construct, and this 
surely poijts to a most practical means of conveying 






V 1 1 1 INTRODUCTION. 



instruction when you provide amusement. The boy 
engaged in making a toy-house becomes half an archi- 
tect in the knowledge acquired of the names and uses 
of forms and materials which, without a model, he 
could hardly comprehend. He who forms a tiny boat 
or cutter, and rigs it himself, acquires a familiarity 
with every rope and spar that belongs to the vessel ; 
he acquires a knowledge which, without going so far 
as the island desert, may any day of life be of valuable 
service to him who inhabits an island home. Knowl- 
edge is power ; the more practical it is the more 
powerful will it be for our good and for that of our 
fellow-beings, and it is hoped that our young readers 
will have reason to remember with a kindly regard 
among the thousand common circumstances of life, 
the instruction imparted in these pages. 



THE 



BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEE. 



f ajter Cojis* 




An endless source of amusement may be obtained 
by the use of the common scissors and a piece of paper. 
Forms of every variety can be cut out in this way ; fig- 
ures; animals, birds, trees, and other objects can be imi- 
tated, so that with a little practice the eye becomes fa- 
miliar with the shape of each, and, as it is very quickly 
done, it is little or no tax on the patience of the juvenile 
operator. It has also the advantage of being inexpen- 
sive, as the materials cost little or nothing ; old newspa- 
pers or any waste pieces of paper will do to practice 
upon, and toys can be made in great variety for the 
amusement of your young friends in the long winter 
evenings. 



THE BOY 8 OWN TOY-MAKER. 



PAPEE BOAT. No. 1. 




Cut a piece of white writing paper, but not of 
Fig. 1. too stiff a quality, six 

inches by four (fig. 1); 
fold it to the dotted 
line a, making exactly 
one half when folded 
to c ; then the corners 
b b are to meet in the 
centre (fig. 2) ; turn 
down the two sides 
d forming the dotted 
lines e ; take the two 
sides between each fin- 
ger and thumb, in the 
left hand, and with the 
right pull it out until 




PAPER BOAT. 



Fig. 2. 



Fig. 3. 



d 

JYbT 
e , e 




it forms fig. 3, taking care to turn over the corners at 
dotted line e; turn down the two top lines to dotted 
line g, pull out the sides again, as before, to make fig. 
4 ; a a being pulled out as before described, taking 
care not to press the inside, it will form the boat, 
fig. 5. 

Fig. 4 Fig. 5. 




A 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 





Fig. 1. 




c 


\£ ; 


a 


\y 


\ 




/ 


S\ 




A 




^,—&L— .__ 





PAPER BOAT. No. 2. 

Take a piece of writing or cartridge paper the size 

of a double square, 
fold it in the middle 
lengthways (fig.l), 
turn up the two 
corners to dotted 
lines b b, and turn 
down the two up- 
per edges from c to the remaining dotted line d, doub- 
ling in the ends e e 
to form (fig. 2) ; be- \ 
fore opening it out N . w 

pierce five small \ 

notches for the seats a, at equal distances, and be- 
tween these again cut out the small square places for 
the rowlocks for the oars. Open out the inside, and 
form the seats (fig. 3) of pieces of cardboard or stiff 

Fig. 3. 



Fig. 2. 




paper, to fit the shape of the boat, the two end ones 
being made to fill up the corners. 



PAPER BOAT. 5 

The Oars (fig. 4).— Fold Fig, 4. 

a piece of paper the length of I \ ,~~, 

the bottom of the boat, five 

times, cut out the shape, double over to the dotted 
line, which will give the oar greater firmness, and also 
improve the shape. 

To imitate water, take a long slip of paper, and 
Flg5 ' ^ folding it eight times (fig. 

5), cut out the centre piece, 
crumple up the paper alto- 
gether, and open out in a 




line the places for the boat to rest upon. 

The Men (fig. 6).— Fold a piece of paper Fi ^ 6 - 
five times, about half the length of the boat, 
cut it out to shape, beginning at the foot on 
the right, cutting continuously on to the left. 
When finished, bend from dotted lines to sit- 
ting posture, arms brought forward, and hands turned 
down to hold the oars. 

Having completed your cutting out, and placed 
your boat upright, fix your men one on each seat at 
opposite sides to each other. Place an oar in the row- 
lock again opposite to each man, and fixing an oar in 
like manner in each man's ha. ids, your boat with its 
crew will be complete. 



THE B0Y 7 S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



COMIC PAPER MASK. 

This is a highly amusing toy, and can be easily 
made out of an old newspaper ; if coloured, the effect 
will be much improved, and made exceedingly funny. 
This, however, can be better done with a sheet of car- 
tridge paper, about a foot and a half square ; having 




folded it double (fig. 1), cut out the eyas, nose, and 



COMIC PAPEK MASK. 7 

mouth, and round the ear ; for the beard, fold the 
bottom portion four or five times, and cut it in long 
slips, open out, fix the two long side ends round the 
head, and by rolling the eyes, and moving the tongue 
about from side to side, you will find it give a most 
comic and grotesque appearance. 

Fig. 2. 




THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



PYEAMIDIOAL HAT. 

Take a piece of paper the size of two squares (fig. 
1) ; double it to dotted line a, turn the corner b to c, 
and the corner d, the same way to the other side ; then 
turn down the piece e to the dotted line/, and pull it 

Fig. 1. Eig. 2. 



\ 



\ 



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X 



£4.. 





out to a diamond shape (fig. 2), taking care to fold the 
corners nicely under each other ; turn down the top 
piece to the dotted line a, and the hat will be finished. 



PAPER BOX. 




Fig. 1. 



Take a piece of paper about six inches square, 
fold it to dotted lines in fig. 1, 
after this the four corners meet 
in the centre (fig. 2), which will 
give the square as dotted lines, 
each fold, to be firmly pressed ; 
then at each turn fold again 
to the corners the centre of the 
outside dotted lines, to form fig. 
3. Fold the corners again to 




Fig. 2. 



Fig. 3. 



V 

/ \ 


\ r 
/ \ 


s \ 

/ 

s 


/ 




10 THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 

I 

the outer dotted li^e (fig. 4) ; cut out the pieces 
marked 1, 2, 3 } 4, 5,\$, and 8 ; cut through all the 
black lines, being very careful not to touch the dotted 



Fig. 4. 




\ /\ /\ /\ / 




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\/\/^/\/ 








\/ v x/ 


V^ 


,/\/\/\ 






lines. Fold over the corners to form fig. 6, insert this ) 
in the opposite sides of the box a a, these again being 
inserted into b b, insert again c into d, and again into 
/, whkh" will form the box ; fig. 7. 



Fig. 6. 



Fig. 7. 



: 










FIRE BALLOON. 11 



FIEE BALLOON. 

Procure a few sheets of well woven tissue paper, 

Fig. i. and cut out the gores (fig. 1); paste these 

/\ carefully together, making in all fourteen 

/ \ strips; look carefully over the surface, and see 

/ 1 that there is no slit or hole left. Fig. 2 : cut 

/ the bottom end equally off all round, take a 

/ piece of thin wire and make it to a circle the 

/ size of the neck of the balloon, then have two 

/ cross pieces a little bent in the middle to hold 

/ a piece of soft cotton, which must afterwards 

-J be dipped in spirits of wine, the circular wire 

being then pasted on to the • Fig - 2 - 

bottom of the balloon. 

To inflate the balloon, some 
one must hold it up by the 
top, and having thoroughly satu- 
rated your piece of cotton, place 
in the centre of the wires and 
set fire to it, being very careful 
not to set fire to the balloon; 
when the air is well heated with- 
in, the balloon will rise to a great height, and in a 
dark night will have a very fine effect. 




12 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



PAEACHUTE. 



square piece of paper folded four times wil 
form fig. 1 ; then with a pair of sharp scissors 
cut out to dotted line, pierce a hole through 
all, open out, and having placed threads through 
each hole, tie them all rounds and brins^the 
remaining ends of the threads down to a /point, 
to which attach a piece of cork or paper as 
a balance ; the air getting under them, they 
sometimes ascend to a great height. I - 




KITE. 




Kite-flying is a most popular game with all boys. 
It is highly exhilarating, and ought to be encouraged 
by every means, as a healthful and innocent recrea- 
tion. We are indebted, it is said, to the Chinese for 
this invention, and to this day it is one of their most 
popular pastimes. The kites sold in shops are made 
to sell, but are not necessarily warranted to fly; any 
boy, however, by following our directions, will be able 
to make one that will. 



u 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



First Kite. 
Take a common sheet of writing paper, double it 



Fig. 1. 



Fig. 2. 




down the centre, and cut out 

fig. 1 ; prick out two small 

holes for the belly-band, open 

out, and bend outwards the 

top part to dotted line (fig. 2); 

to fix the belly-band, tie a 

knob or small piece of paper 

to each end of the thread at 
the back of the kite, to prevent it running through 
the holes. As this is only a small kite, strong thread 
will be found the best to make the tail of, as well 
as to fly it with; the tail ought to be about fifteen times 
the length of the kite, and one piece of paper at the 
extreme end will be sufficient to steady it ; * care must 
be taken to tie the thread to the right place on the 
belly-band, as a great deal of the success of its flying 
will depend upon this. 

Second Kite. 

Kites made with a lath and bow can be made to 
any size, by pasting two or more sheets of paper 

* If the wind is strong, more weights must be attached to the 
tail. 



KITE. 



15 




together ; an old newspaper will answer the purpose 
as well as anything, unless you wish to colour it after- 
wards, in which case it ought to be white ; 
but first you must procure a straight 
lath of pine, the width and the thick- 
ness of course must depend upon the 
size; shape it to a point at the top, notch 
a small piece on each side about an inch 
from the top, and also at the bottom, 
the former to tie the hoop to, and the 
latter the string to paste the side and 
ends of the paper over. 

The Boiv. — This can be made of cane, 
but the best thing is a hoop. Thin it down to about 
the thickness of a common cane, balance it on your 
finger, and then fix it at that point to the top of the 
lath with string ; having cut a small notch at each end 
of the hoop, fix the string therein, and carry it down 
to the lower end of the lath, tie it there, and again 
continue the string up to the opposite side of the hoop, 
but before fixing with a knot, be sure that your skele- 
ton is equally balanced on both sides ; this done, secure 
the knot, and carry the string to the opposite end of 
the bow, taking one turn round the lath in its way; 
from this point carry on the string to the top of the 
lath, and again to the opposite corner of the bow, fixing 



16 



the^boy's own toy-maker. 



it there ; from there continue the string a little more 
than half way down the lath, and after securing it 
there, carry up the string again to the other corner 
of the bow; fix it there, and the frame-work of your 
kite will be completed. 

To paper the Kite. — Having pasted your paper to 
the size you require, lay the frame upon 
it, and with a pair of scissors cut about 
an inch outside of all to the shape ; 
afterwards paste the outer portion all 
round, and fix it first over the bow, 
and then down each side ; allow it to 
dry, and then drill out two holes for 
the belly-band — the upper one should 
be about one-fifth of the length of the 
kite from the top, and the other rather 
more than the same distance above its extremity. 

The Belly-band. — Insert the end of a piece of string 
into each of the holes a a, and tie them in knots on the 
back part of the lath, taking great care not to make it 
too full or too narrow. The next important thing is 
to fix the string to the belly-band, and when this is 
done you next put on the 

Tail. — This should be about fifteen or sixteen 
times the length of the kite ; slips of doubled paper 
about four or five inches long must be tied to it by 




KITE. 



17 



noose knots, about four inches apart from each other, 
with a little larger one or a tassel at the end. 

Wings may be attached to each corner of the bow, 
but they do not at all improve its flying capabilities. 
They are made of pieces of paper folded together, and 
cut up from the bottom in strips. 



The Cloth Kite 



Has some advantages over one made of paper, as not 
being so soon spoiled by the wet. Calico 
or silk is sometimes used, but the 
best material is very thin gutta percha 
cloth. The frame is made of two 
cross pieces placed at right angles to 
each other, and secured with string 
from corner to corner, over which the 
material is sewn, and fastened by quilt- 
ing along the string. When finished, the whole may 
be detached from the laths, and these being separated 
can be easily packed away in a portable compass. 




18 



THE BOX'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



The Officer Kite. 



Toy-makers generally paint their kites with a few 

daubs of red or blue, with- 
out the least attempt 
at design ; but if you 
wish to paint your kite, 
here is an officer that 
will answer your pur- 
pose. It must be all 
dashed in very boldly, 
for when the kite is 
far up very small work 
upon it would be en- 
tirely lost; the coat may 
be painted red or blue, 
the face full crimson^ 
and the epaulettes, &c., 
P yellow, or gold tinsel if 
you happen to have any. 

Note. — The thickness of the string to be used will of course depend 
upon the size of your kite. 




Carfrkartr €op. 

Like paper toys, cardboard is a material by which 
almost any thing can be imitated ; but as it is more ex- 
pensive than paper, it will require a little more care, 
so that what is cut out should be done with a purpose, 
that it may not be cut to waste. Outside objects are 
most conveniently cut out with a pair of stout scissors, 
holding the card as already described for paper cut- 
tings ; the smaller pieces inside, such as windows of a 
house, &c., are better accomplished with a sharp-pointed 
pen-knife, and a flat ruler; a parallel ruler with a brass 
edge is the best, but any other straight line that you 
can hold firm on the card with the left hand will 
answer the purpose. When any portion is cut out with 
a pen-knife, it ought to be done upon a piece of flat 
board, to prevent cutting the table. Cardboard has 
many advantages over paper; solid objects can be 
formed and put together, specimens of which, with 
others, we propose giving; but as the Publishers of 
this book have already issued a useful and instructive 
work* on the subject, we refer our young friends to it 
for further information, should it be required. 

* Home Pastime ; or, The Child's Own Toy-maker. 



20 the boy's own toy-maker. 



THE EACE. 



Cutting out objects in cardboard may be done to 
any extent, according to the skill and ingenuity of 
the maker : such as a farm-yard, with its pigs, cows, 
poultry, &c; a circus; or, in fact, almost any thing 
can be successfully imitated with the common scissors 
and cardboard. We shall only give two examples in 
this style — a Kace, and a Fox Hunt — and other ob- 
jects will afterwards suggest themselves. 

It will be as well not to attempt too much in the 



THE KACE. 



21 



first essay, but confine yourself to three horses and 
riders. The outlines may be drawn out in pencil, but 
with a little practice you will soon be able to cut them 
out by the eye at once. 

The manner horses run at full speed is so much 
alike, that one position will do very well for all your 
horses: the head and neck w r ell forward, the ears 
back, the tail a little erect, and all the legs well 
stretched out. Cut out with a pair of short stout 

Fig. 1. 




scissors, commencing at the outer hind foot, continu- 
ously round till finished, marking the feet and legs as 
carefully as possible. 

Having cut out the horses, you can prick out the 
form of the saddle and saddle-cloth with the point of 
a pin, as well as the eye and nose of the horse, and 
the part of the bridle on the horses' heads; or, if you 
prefer colouring them, you can do so, making one 



22 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



horse brown, another black, and the other chestnut; 
the rein may be put through the mouth of the horse 
with a needle, and formed of brown thread. 

The Jockeys in racing, like the position of the 
horses, are also much alike; they sit with their knees 
close to the saddle, the body a little forward, and 
mostly with both hands holding the bridle (fig. 2) ; 
Fig. 2. this attitude will do for the first and third 
rider. Cut out, beginning at the heel of 
A ; the foot on the right hand side, and round 
\ to shape, taking care not to cut further be- 
tween the legs than the dotted line, which 
will make him sit his horse properly. 

The Second Jockey may be represented 
whipping his horse, his right hand raised 
up, and the other holding the bridle (fig. 3). Having 
cut out as before described, if you wish to 
paint them you can make No. 1, black cap 
and red jacket; No. 2, blue and yellow 
striped jacket and blue cap; No. 3, yellow 
body, blue sleeves, and black cap. 

Having so far completed the race, you 
can try the effect on the table by placing 
the men on the horses, but if you wish to 
make a more finished job of your work, you 
must procure a piece of flat board, and cut 





THE KACE. 



23 



out the Rails (fig. 4). Take a strip of cardboard about 
half the height of the men, and cut out with a pen- 
knife and scissors, and by joining the ends together, 
make it to any extent you think proper ; to fix them 

Fig. 4. 



W 



-a 



- a 



you must split the ends to the dotted lines a, and 
separating them will make them stand upright. 

The Spectators. — Fold a piece of paper four times 
the size you require your men, and cut out as before 
described in fig, 2 ; open out and place them outside 
the railings in rows (fig. 5). 

The Winning -post j or stand, can be made of card- 
board (fig. 7), and made to stand the same as the rails 
(fig. 4); place a paper man inside. 

Fig. 5. Fig. 7. 




24 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



THE FOX HUNT. 




The number of sports- 
men, horses, dogs, fields, 
Jf£^ trees, gates, &c, can be carried out to 
^S^Ji^ an unlimited extent, according to the 
\l^^^j s ^^ an( ^ perseverance of the artist, 




THE FOX HUNT. 



25 



As it is in nature with a real fox hunt, the more that 
is in it the more the excitement and pleasure, so with 
your toy hunt, the more you make the better yourself 
and friends will be satisfied and pleased with the ex- 
hibition. 

Horse running (fig. 1). This is the most common 

Fig. 1. 




position for a horse galloping, and you will therefore 
require more of this than any other; it can be varied 

Fig. 2. 




a little by making the heads of some a little more for- 
ward (fig. 2). Of these two positions you will require 



26 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEE. 



to cut out, according to the following directions, from 
eight to twelve: — Take a piece of cardboard, and com- 
mence by cutting out, beginning with the right hind 
leg, and round continuously till completed, taking care 
to make the feet and legs as good a shape as possible. 
The eye, saddle, saddle-cloth, and bridle on the head, 
may be pricked out with a pin, and when all are com- 
pleted they will make a very good set as they are: 
but if you wish to make your hunt more finished, 
you may colour some of your horses brown, others 
black, chestnut, &c; the saddle-cloth inside blue, the 

Fig. 3. 




saddles light brown, and the bridles can be made of 



THE FOX-HUNT. 



27 



thread. The two positions of horses already described 
will do for almost all kinds of straight or field run- 
ning, but you will require some in the act of leaping 
over gates, hedges, &c., when both your horses and 
men will require a different attitude. 

Leaping (fig. 3). This is a very good position for 
a horse in the act of leaping; it must be cut out as 
described in fig. 1 and 2, and you had better cut out 
four or five like it. 

Huntsmen (fig. 4). To make a rider for your 
horses which you have cut out as fig. 1, the most 
natural attitude will be for the huntsman to be hold- 
ing his horse with both hands, the body a little for- 
ward, and the knees firmly sticking to the saddle. 
If painted, all the coats must be red, cap and boots 
black, tops yellow, and neckties light blue. 

Fig. 4. Fig. 5. 








28 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



First Huntsman (fig. 5). — The whipper-in or 
huntsman may be a little in advance of all the others, 
and even before some of the dogs; he should be repre- 
sented in the act of cheering them on, his left hand 
erect, holding his horn (trumpet), and the other hold- 
ing the bridle. You will, however, only require one 
figure in this position, riding a galloping horse (fig. 1). 
Bider (fig. 6). This attitude is for your leaping 
Fig. 6. horses (fig. 3) ; he is holding his 

horse well up to assist it over the 
gate or fence; you will also re- 
quire four or five in this position. 
The Fox (fig. 10.) The re- 
marks we have already made 
respecting the running of horses 
will also apply to the fox and 
dogs, for they vary but little 
in their action; there is, however, 
a marked difference in the head 
and tail of Eeynard, which must be carefully at- 
tended to. 

Fig. 10. Fig. 7. 






THE FOX-HUNT. 



29 




The Hounds (fig. 7). The one we have illustrated 
is the most natural, and of this you will require at 
least ten or twelve; if coloured they must be either 
black and white, or brown and white, in patches of 
every kind. 

Hounds (fig. 8). This position will give a little 
variety to the pack, but as he does not look so thor- 
oughly up to his work, you will not require so many, 
say, five or six. If you wish to represent nothing but 
a straight run, you would 
not require any other atti- 
tudes for your dogs, but 
you will want to give spirit 
to your hunt, to see some of them jumping and 
scrambling over hedges and ditches; here is another 
attitude : 

Jumping (fig. 9). Of this you will 
•^ not require more than three or four. 

Having cut out and coloured all as 
before described, you now begin to pre- 
pare your ground, which must be com- 
posed of fields, hedges, gates, trees, &c. 
A piece of thin pine about two feet long 
by six or eight inches broad, will make the best stand; 
the in equalities of the ground may be made of pieces 
of paper, cardboard, or bits of decayed twigs of trees, 
sand, moss, &c, and fixed with a little gum. 




30 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



Gates (fig. 11). These must be cut out of card- 
board, and they will not require painting; they are 
made to stand by splitting the cardboard up to the 
dotted lines, and fixing the ends with gum or paste; 
cut out not less than three of these. 

Fig. 11. 

n ' i 






L 



u 

Hedges. Procure if possible some green paper; 
fold it together about four or five times, and cut out 
to the form of fig. 13; they must be a little higher 
than the gates. Commence cutting out from the right 
hand side, holding the paper firmly between the finger 
and thumb in the left hand; when completed, twist 
the various cuttings together, and you will have a 
good imitation of a hedge; you can vary the sizes a 
little. 



THE FOX-HUNT. 



31 



Trees (fig. 13). — These are also cut out of green 
paper, and in the same manner as the hedges, only 
much larger and 
of various sizes, 
also leaving 
more length for 
the trunks, and 
giving more 
shape to the out- 
line; they must 
also vary in size 
and form. The 
trunks may be 
supported by 
twisting a piece 
of paper round 
the five cut- 
tings, and fix- 
ing them to the 
ground with 
gum or paste. 

A village church, cottage, or farm, may be repre- 
sented in the distance, according to the taste and 
talent of the artist. It will not be necessary to make 
your horses, dogs, or fox, fixtures, so that you may 
enjoy a fresh hunt as often as you have leisure. 




32 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



Old railings, stumps of trees, and other objects, 
may be made of twigs, roots, and small branches of 
natural trees; and broken pieces of ground may be 




formed by a combination of all, with the addition of 
pieces of stone and moss, or such other things as may 
suggest themselves to the taste and fancy of the 
maker. 



S 



THE THAUMATEOPE. 

This is a very pretty philosophical toy ; its name 
is derived from two Greek words, one of which signi- 
fies wonder, and the other to turn. It is founded upon 
the well-known principle in optics, that an impression 
made on the retina of the eye lasts for a short time 
after the object which produced it has been withdrawn. 
When you have made one you will understand it bet- 
ter than by any written description. 

Fig. 1. 




The Boy and the Donkey. — Take a common card, 
or piece of cardboard, say five inches by three, on one 
side of it sketch a donkey running, and paint it black 
3 



34: 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



with India|i55i»3k^#lth a lighter wash for the ground 
(fig. 3); and in life manner draw and paint a boy in . 
a sitting potion, on the reverse side of the card, as 
shewn in the cut (fig. 2). Fasten two pieces of thread, 

Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 




one on each side, at opposite points in the centre of 
the card; take these between the fore-finger and thumb 
in each hand, twirl them round, which will make the 
card quickly revolve, and the boy will appear to be 
riding upon the donkey as in fig. 1. 

A rat in a trap, a bird in a cage, a cricketer and 
bat, and numerous other subjects may be produced 
upon the same principle. 



■ - 



CABD BACKS. 

Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 




If these are carefully made and neatly coloured, 
they will make something better than mere toys; they 
will serve as appropriate presents to distant friends, or 
as ornaments to decorate your own room. They will 



36 the boy's own toy-maker. 

be also useful to hold any loose cards, or letters, if 
hung up on each side of the mantel-piece. 

Front view of a Ship (fig. 1). — Take a piece of 
clean cardboard about twelve inches high by five 
broad, copy the outline carefully in pencil, and com- 
mence colouring the upper portion of the sky light blue, 
leaving the lights, and mix a little Indian red and 
darker blue for the clouds. With the same colours lay 
in the distant sea, making it a little greener towards 
the front. The shadows on the sails can be washed in 
with sepia, and the sails with raw umber, mixed with 
Fi s- 8 - JK a little yellow ochre. The hull 
— t — fel\_. must be a wash of lamp-black and 
/ 1 "V a little Indian red, and the bottom 

mm /.-/& 1>\ of the ship copper color, the flags 

rj *v^'ir re( l an d blue, the yards black, and 
/ / \\ \ the ropes and rigging touched in 
/ / j \ \ with sepia. When these are finished, 

S J * < a j cut out carefully on a flat board the 

^ffj:—^-! \p--4 fore-topsail (fig. 3), along the top of 
the yard and down the sides to 
a a, and in the same manner the fore-top-gallant sail, 
to b &, being careful not to cut the dotted lines. 

In the same manner as before described for drawing 
and colouring fig. 1, proceed to finish fig. 2 ; the only 
difference to be attended to particularly is in cutting 



CARD RACKS. 



37 



out the sails, which must be as follows 
same manner as fig. 1 the mizen- 
topsail to fig. 4, and the mizen- 
top-gallant sail, also the main- 
top-gallant sail to c c. "When 
this is finished, paste on or gum 
a thin strip of gold-edged paper 
round the outside of all edges, 
and finish with a bow of co- 
loured ribbon at the top of each. 



cut out in the 

Fig. 4. 





38 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



PAIE OF STEPS. 



Take a piece of cardboard, and draw out the pat- 
tern in outline, say one-third larger than fig. 1, and 



Fig. 1. 



L 



\ 



commence first by cutting out the small 
holes for the steps with a sharp pointed 
penknife, and in the same way the 
squares inside ; the outside can be cut 
out with the scissors. Having cut out 
the shape, cut half through the card 
on the dotted lines, and bend over first 
for the top, and afterwards for the two 
sides. 

The Steps. — Cut out four pieces of 
card the shape of fig. 2, also one-third 



Eig. 1. 



r 



J 



larger than pattern ; having done so, 
insert the narrow ends into their re- 
spective holes, and you have a pair of 
neat little steps, 



HOESE AND CAKT. 

Draw out on a piece of cardboard, one-third 
larger than the pattern* (fig. 1), and cut out the out- 



Fig. 1. 



a, 



D 




a, 



□DBDDa 




side, taking care to leave the small projecting pieces 
on the end and front, a ; afterwards with the point 
of a penknife cut out between the rails on each side, 
b, and also very carefully the four small holes on each 
side, c ; next cut half through the dotted lines, d, 



* All the other parts must be in the same proportion. 



40 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKEK. 



and bend over the sides and ends to form the body of 

Fig. 2. 

Ddddddo 




CHQ! 



3Q[Z7f 



D 




the cart (fig. 2), by inserting the projecting parts a 
into the small holes c. 

The Shafts (fig. 3). — Cut out to shape, and with 




a little gum or paste fix 
them on to the bottom 
front of the cart, to the 
dotted line. 

The Wheels (fig. 4).— 
These must be drawn out 
first with a pencil. The 
outsides can be cut out 



Fig. 4. 




HOUSE AND T3ART. 



41 



with the scissors, but the insides must be done with 
the penknife. 

Axle-tree. — Get a piece of wood and cut it to the 
shape (fig. 5) j and with gum or paste fix it across the 

Fig - 5 - middle of the bottom of 

j=| "T^ 13 ^e cart (fig. 1) ; when it 

j g p er f ec £[y fay put on the 

wheels, and to keep them on you can cut out a small 
cap (fig. 6) ; the hole in this should be made Fig - 6 - 
first, and the outside cut round with scissors. [Q) 

Your cart being now completed you will no doubt 
want a horse for it (fig. 7.) This had better also be 

Fig. 7. 




drawn out first with a pencil, the harness put in with 
pen and ink, or the whole, as well as your cart. 



42 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



colored according to your fancy. Having cut out the 
horse, by dividing the legs a little, he will stand 
firmly, and by fixing a piece of thread to each of the 
shafts, and over the horse's back, you will find it sup- 
port the cart ; you may also make the bridle of 
thread. 




SOLDIERS MARCHING OUT OF A FORT. 



Draw out in pencil on cardboard the outside of 
the fort, and color it in imitation of stone work. 
When completed to your satisfaction, cut out the 
outline with a pair of scissors, and the loophooles and 
gateway with a penknife to the. form of fig. 1 ; cut 
half through the dotted line at the bottom, and turn 
over to make the support. 



u 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKEE. 
Fig. 1. 




The Entrance.— This is also made of cardboard, 
and colored in imitation of stone-work inside, but 
with, a shadow over the whole, to give a better effect. 
When done, cut out to the pattern of fig. 2, and cut 

Fig. 2. 
J. J- J- J- -L 1 _L JL- Jj± 1 J_'_L-± JL ±±± ill IrL- 1:1:1:1 



half through the dotted lines ; the end turned will 
make the stand, the black lines being cut entirely, and 
the end bent over from the dotted line; bend over 
to the form of the gate, and paste the side of it on to 
the inside of the gateway. 



SOLDIERS MARCHING OUT OF A FORT. 



45 



The Door (fig. 3). — This must also be drawn on 
cardboard, and coloured in imitation of old oak ; being 
Fig. 3. done the exact size of space Fig - 4 - 
|^ left open behind the gateway, { \ 
cut out with a pair of scissors, cd □ 

and divide the door up the 
centre. Cut four slips of paper 
to form the hinges, and bend- 
ing them in the centre, paste 




en 



or gum one half of each to the outside of the gateway, 
and the other to the door ; when dry, the doors will 
conveniently open and shut. 

A Stand for the whole may be also made of card- 
board, painted stone colour, to which you can paste the 
slip of the front, back, and sides on the dotted line of 
fig. 5. 





Fig. 5. 



It has long been a common amusement with boys to 



46 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



cut out soldiers and fix them in various positions; but 
we believe this is the first time that any attempt has 
been made to put them in motion. They must be first 
drawn upon cardboard, and coloured as neatly as pos- 
sible. 

Drummer (fig. 6). — He may be a little shorter than 

the others, and the coat is the only p 

difference in his dress, having a 

few white bands round the arms 

and down the body; coat, red, 

trousers, dark grey, and black ( 

cap. 

The Officer (fig. 7) must be 
about the same height as the 
soldiers, a sword in his hand in- 
stead of a gun, and only one belt over the 
left shoulder, red coat, and trousers the same 
as the others. 

Soldiers (fig. 8) must be represented car- 
rying the gun over the left shoulder, cross 
belts over the body, and coloured as before 
described; You will require at least six of 
these, or as many more as you think proper 
to make. Having completed the drawings 
of your figures, cut them out carefully with 
a pair of scissors, using a penknife for the 





Fig. 8. 




SOLDIERS MARCHING OUT OF A FORT. 47 

inside portions; when finished, cut two slips of card- 
board long enough to stand all your figures upon, 
allowing an inch between each figure, and not broader 

than half an inch (fig. 9) ; 16^ up the feet of the sol- 
Fig. 9. 



J 



diers to make them stand, and cut several slips of 
cardboard the shape of fig. 10, and cut half through 
the middle, and bend Fig. 10. over; with a little gum 
or paste fix the feet | of the soldiers upon 

fig. 9, one foot in each LI slip ; and behind the 
feet fix the piece of card, half to the leg and the other 
half to the stand, and so on till you have placed them 
all in regular order; allow them to stand till perfectly 
dry, and then, by moving the stand forward right and 
left, the soldiers will have the appearance of marching. 
The door of the fort should be kept closed, only open- 
ing it just before the soldiers are made to march out. 
The manner of working the figures being kept as much 
a secret as possible, and the soldiers really marching 
will assuredly amuse your juvenile visitors. The card- 
board on which your soldiers are fixed ought to be 
rather stout, and painted a brownish tint, to be as 
near the colour of the stand as possible. 



48 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



RUSTIC COTTAGE. 




Take a sheet of cardboard about the proportion of 
twelve inches by six, cut out the windows and round 
the black lines of the door, and half through the dot- 
ted lines, which will allow the door to open and shut 
(fig. 1) ; this is for the front of the cottage. For the 
back, cut out another piece of cardboard in a similar 
manner and the same size. 



KUSTIC COTTAGE. 



49 



Fig. 1. 



s- 



\ 



\ 











• 







y f 



s 



For the two ends, cut out two pieces of cardboard 
six inches square (fig. 2). 

The Out-House. Cut out of cardboard the pattern 
(fig. 3), and half through the dotted lines, and bend 

Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 






\ / 




over to shape, having first cut out the black lines of 
the door, and half through the dotted lines as already 
described in fig. 1. 

Small squares in windows (fig. 1). Cut out seve- 
ral slips of white paper, and paste them over the back 
4 




50 

and front windows, according to pattern (fig. 4) ; pieces 
of glass can be pasted behind these, and also Fig. 4 
red or white curtains may be afterwards 
added, if you wish your cottage to have \ 
a completely finished appearance. Tracing ' 
paper will make a substitute for the glass, 
if you are not able to procure the real thing. 

Before commencing with, the wood- work, wash all 
over the front, back, and sides of the cardboard with 
a brown colour, to prevent any white work shewing 
between the interstices. 

The rustic wood-work for the front. Procure a 
quantity of small twigs not thicker than a common 
quill — they must be quite dry and well-seasoned; first 
i cut out pieces to fit the top and bottom of 
the windows, and afterwards the two sides, 
and then in the same way the top and sides 
of the door ; and with similar pieces,, but a 
very little thicker, fit to the length of the two sides ; 





and along the bottom ; also along the top, with a small 



RUSTIC COTTAGE. 



51 



piece in the centre of the door. Having got them all 
to the correct size, cut off nearly one-half of the under 
side of all, to allow them to lie flat on the cardboard. 
Fix the wood-work with glue, and while the front 
part already described is drying, cut out in a similar 
manner pieces to fit the windows, door, top, bottom, 
and sides, for the back, and then glue them on in their 
respective places. * 

Inside of the Wood-ivorh Cut out several pieces 
of twigs, taking care that they are not quite so thick 
as the supports for the door, windows, &c. ; split them 
evenly down the middle, and fitting them first care- 
fully to the pattern, fix them with glue. Continue in 
like manner till the whole of the front is covered, care 
being taken that they fit as close and neatly as pos- 
Fi ^ 5 - sible. The 

back of the 
cottage 
must next 
be covered 
in the same 
manner, un- 
less youwish 

to save time by making all the inside pieces up- 
right (fig. 5), instead of the same pattern as the 
front. 




52 



THE BOYS OWN TOY-MAKER. 



The sides or ends of the Cottage. The end on the 
left must be commenced by cutting out a frame of 
twigs first for the sides and then for top and bottom. 
Having previously drawn out the shape of a diamond 
on the cardboard (fig. 2), fix with glue to the top, 
bottom, and two sides; then cut out small pieces to 
the shape of the diamond, and fix them across the end, 
and fill up the remaining portions with uprights. 

As the end on the right is partly covered by the 
out-house, it will not be necessary to cover more than 
the outer portion with wood- work. It must be done as 
already described, by fixing a piece along the top and 
bottom, and down the one side, and the upper portion 
of the right hand side, and fill up with small pieces 
the inside^ all upright (fig. 6). 

Wood-work for the Outhouse. 

Pieces must be first fixed round 

the door, and down the sides of 

the two ends and back, also 

along the bottom and top of 

each, and filled up with uprights 

in the inside. 

Having completed your wood-work for the front, 

back, and ends of your cottage, before putting them 

together paint the three doors a dark green colour. 




RUSTIC COTTAGE. 53 

To fix the house together, cut four slips of paper 
five inches by one, double each piece down the middle, 
and with paste or glue bind the side and ends toge- 
ther in the inside with the paper ; allow it to stand 
quietly till dry, and then fix to the ground. 

Tlie Stand. This must be made of a thin piece of 
pine-board, which must be first slightly covered over 
with a brownish coat of paint ; it should be alto- 
gether about sixteen inches long by twelve broad. 
The house, including the out-house, should be placed 
at equal distance from the ends, and close to the back, 
leaving room for the garden and railings in front ; 
fix the house with slips of the paper in the inside to 
the walls and ground, in the same manner as before 
described for fixing the ends together. The out-house 
must next be added, and put together by pasting 
slips of the paper to the sides of the house and to the 
bottom and ground. 

The Porch over the front door must next be cut 
out of cardboard (fig. 7) ; cut half FLg 7 

through the dotted line, bend to j~ T~ 

shape, and fix with glue and thin ' ' ' 

slips of paper under the porch, and after it is dry 
paint it the same colour as the doors. 

The Hoof. First cut out of cardboard the two 



51 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



..'. 



ends (figs. 8 and 9), the square hole in fig. 9 being for 

Fig. 8 Fig. 9 





Fig. 10. 



\the chim- 
mey. The 
front and 
back to be 
cut out in 
one piece 
(fig. 10), 
and half 
through 
the dotted 
lines to get 
the bends; 
cut out the 
porch for 
I the win- 
' dow in 



RUSTIC COTTAGE. 



55 



front, and paste the extreme ends on the inside, to 
which fix the two end pieces. % 

Top front Window (fig. HL). 
board the window to pattern, and 



Cut 



out of 

Fig. 11. 



card- 




half through the dotted lines ; the 

end dotted lines being cut on the 

back of the card to turn over to 

the front. Cut thin slips of paper for the cross sashes, 

as in the other windows, and paste them on to the 

back of the window, and afterwards paste in glass or 

tissue paper, as before described. 

Roof of Window Porch (fig. 12). Cut out the 
Fig. 12. shape, and half through the dotted lines 
for the front, and at the back to turn 
upwards the end dotted lines. Fix in 
the window by pasting the end pieces to 
the inside of the roof, and fig. 12 to the 

same on the outside. 

Hoof of Out-house (fig. 13). Cut out 

the shape, and .half through the dotted 

line, and fix the piece to the end of the 

house. The roof may be afterwards 

painted in imitation of thatch, or act- 
ually thatched with hay, or moss. 

The Chimney (fig. 14). Cut out the 

half through the dotted lines; bend over to the square, 




Fig. 13. 




and 



56 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 




give 
stone 
pieces 
Secure 
the end 




and fix "by pasting lower extremity on the inside. To 
Fig. 14. give fi^sh, and make an imitation 

ping round the top, cut four 
[wood the size, and fix round, 
te chimney by pasting it to 
all inside, before placing on 
I the roof, which will not require fixing ; 
but before the chimney is secured, it 
ought m be painted in imitation of 
bricks, ^th the stone coping at the top. 
Bailings in front of Cottage. These can be made 
in the same way as the wood-work of the house, by 
splitting pieces of wood, and 
glueing them on to 1||> other 
pieces, the length you require 
for the front and sides ; the end 
ones being a little thicker; they must be fixed with 
slips of card behind the supports. The gate in front 
can be cut out of cardboard. The garden may be 
composed of moss ; and the walks of sand, small 
shells, &c. 




I 



BOATS. 

In the British Museum may be seen the remains of 
a large boat cut out of the solid tree; and there is no 
doubt this was the manner in which the ancient Britons 
first constructed their vessels. In some parts of Wales 
and on the river Severn a sort of rude boat may still 
be found, called a coracle: it is made of wicker-work, 
covered with skins, and is propelled in the same man- 
ner as the canoe, by means of a paddle. For crossing 
creeks, lakes, or rivers they have the same advantages 
as the Grreenlander has with his canoe, by their ex- 
treme-lightness. A man could easily carry one about 
on his ;back or under his arm. 

For many years both ships and boats were made 
very clumsy, as if strength and stowage were all that 
could be desired. The old bluff bow has now given 
way to the clipper ship, which is much longer and 
sharper; and for a boat the skiff or row-boat of the 



58 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



present day may be taken as a model of perfection 
where speed and lightnA are required. 



rig. 1. 




Before commencing to build or cut out a boat, it 
will be as well to become acquainted with its compo- 
nent parts ; but it must first be observed that ships' 
boats, or those used on the sea, are much higher and 
stronger than those used on rivers only. Here we 
have a ship's long boat : 

Fig. 2. 

1* 




«. Bow. e. Thwarts or Seats. 

b. Stern. /. Tiller. 

c. Cutwater. g. Stern-sheets. 

d. Rowlock. h. Fore-sheets. 

i. Whale-streak. 

In boats made for racing there is a board fixed 
across the boat for the feet of the rower, called a 
stretcher. 

Boats with two rowlocks opposite each other are 



BOATS. 



59 



called sculling boats, and are propelled by a pair of 
light oars called sculls; when the rowlocks are not 
opposite each other it is called a pair-oared boat; if 
with two in the middle, opposite each other, it is called 
a randan; when there are four rowlocks, none of 
which are opposite each other, it is called & four- oared 
boat; and so on, up to ten. 

Fig. 3. 

a 6 , 



D 



Scull or Oar. 

a. Handle. b. Shoulder. 

c. Blade. 

A scull is a small oar used with one hand, and 
requiring a pair, as in the case with oars — one being 
placed in the rowlocks on each side. Oars are used 
with both hands, and a pair-oared boat of course re- 
quires two oarsmen, and so on. The strokesman is 
the rower nearest the stern ; the bowman the one 
nearest the bow; and the coxswain the one who steers 
the boat. The painter is a rope fixed to the inside 
of the bow to fasten the boat to the shore. Having 
become acquainted with the various parts of a boat, 
w T e shall now give directions how to make one or two, 
and afterwards illustrate the different kinds of boats, 
and their style of rigging, &c. 



60 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEK. 



TO MAKE A SMALL PlEASURE-BoAT. 

Fig. 4. 



Having procured a small piece of soft wood, per- 
fectly free from knots, say seven inches long by one- 
and-a-half square; mark out with a pencil the keel, 
stem, and stern, and with a knife cut along each side 
and down the stern; Fig. 5. 

gradually cut away 
the corners to make 
the shape of upper 



portion, and then cut away the sides, making fig. 7, 

Fig. 6. the bottom of the boat, 

and afterwards finish 

off the stern (fig. 8). 

Having completed 

the outside work, you next scoop out the inside with a 

Fig. 7. Fig. 8. 





small gouge (fig. 9), leaving a small ridge to rest the 



BOATS. 



61 




seats upon; the stern must project a little above the 

gunwale, and the sides Fig - 9 - 

must have a slight 

sheer. Cut out the 

rowlocks, and your 

boat will be ready for the seats (fig. 11). Cut out 

five pieces of wood 
about the breadth of 
fig. 11, and fix one in 

the centre and the two others at each end; the one at 

the bow filling up the rig.ii. 

corner. Drill or bore a 

small hole through the 

middle of the second seat for the mast, and opposite 

it a corresponding hole in the bottom of the boat, and 

with a little sand- 
paper polish up 
the whole. 

Sails and 
Rigging. — A boat 
of this descrip- 
tion may have 
one or two sails : 
a is called the 
spritsail, b the 
foresail, c sprit- 



rig. 12. 





G2 



sail boom ; d the mast. The ropes which hold in the 
sails are called the main-sheet and the fore-sheet. 

The Rudder (fig. 13). — Cut out a small Fig. is. 
piece of wood to the size ; take a small pin, 
Fig. 14. and having cut it in two, bend it to 
this shape, and stick the sharp point 
into the upper part of the rudder. Cut an- 
other pin in two, double it, and drive the two 
points into the upper part of the stern of the boat, fit- 
ting the hinge of the rudder into it. A small Fig. & 
hole may be made through the lower part of c — 
the stern of the boat, and opposite it also in the rud- 
der, through which a thread may be tied to keep it 
in its place. The thick end of a pin, bent a little, 
will make a very good substitute for a tiller, 

To paint your Boat. — The whole should first have 
a priming of white or lead-colour, and when this is 
dry, paint the inside green, the seats and sides of the 
boat black, and the bottom green, and then you will 
have a very nice pleasure-boat. 

There are various styles of rigging adapted to sail- 
ing-boats ; but the one illustrated in fig. 12 is prefer- 
able to all others for juvenile sailors, being much 
easier to manage, and not so liable to capsize, as when 
a boom is used to keep out the sail. 



BOATS. 



63 




There are many different kinds of rig, though that 

in fig. 12 is the 

most common. 

Some of the water- 
men on the coast 

of England use a 

kind of deep boat, 

rigged with two 

spritsails and a 

jib ; they sail very === 

fast, and go out to 

the ships at sea in all kinds of weather. 

Ships' boats, and those used by the coast-guard 

against smugglers 
have what is call- 
ed a lugsailj or 
squaresail; it is 
more difficult to 
manage than the 
spritsail, and 

ought therefore to 
be only used in 

the hands of experienced sailors. 

Boats on a large scale, rigged with two or more 

sails of this kind, are much used by the fishermen 

at Margate, Deal, &c. In the hands of skilful seamen 




64 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



they are excellent sea-boats, and their crews have 
saved the life of many a shipwrecked mariner. 

Boat with two Lugsails. 




Having noticed the various characteristics of dif- 
ferent boats, we shall continue the subject to the 




making of a yacht, and the rigging and s'ailing of the 
various classes of vessels. 



CUTTER OR SLOOP. 

There is nothing in which the professional toy- 
makers have more improved than in their boats and 
ships. It is not long since the most clumsy and shape- 
less things were sold in shops and bazaars, generally 
without form or design ; but within the last few years 
the trade has so much progressed in this particular 
branch, that the tiny craft may now be seen in all the 
best toy-shops, executed in many instances to scale, 
and perfectly correct in all their proportions. Yachts, 
schooners, brigs, ships, and even steam-packets, with 
their machinery, can now be purchased complete; but 
the design of the present work is to teach boys to 
make their own toys, whereby they will gain both 
amusement and instruction, and save their money. 

With the cutter or sloop-rigged yacht, and the 
uses of its various parts every boy would do well to 
become acquainted, as he will learn practical informa- 
tion that will always be of use to him through life. 

To commence, you must procure a nice soft piece of 
5 



66 



THE BOYS OWJN T TOY-MAKER. 



wood, as free from knots as possible, say about fourteen 
inches long by five inches square ; take a ruler, and 
mark with a pencil two lines along the centre of the 
bottom for the keel, and up the end for the stem 
Fig - L (fig. 1), as in the 

dotted lines; cut 
along outside 
these -with a 
sharp knife to an 
equal depth of half an inch, then with a gouge scrape 
away the wood on both sides forming the centre, or 
midships, first, and gradually cut away to the shape 
of fig. 2. The midships (fig. 3) being first complet- 




Fig. 2. 



Fig. 3. 




Fig. 5. 



ed, you work away next to fig. 4 for the bow and 
Fig - 4 - stem, and then to fig. 5 for the 
\ stern; these latter portions must 
! gradually taper down towards t 

the keel ; the latter is called the _ 

sheer, and the former the cutwater ; in yachts and 
clipper ships these are much finer than in other ves- 





CUTTER. 



67 





Having cut out the shape to fig. 6, you must 

now carefully finish 
off the model, taking 
care that each side is 
perfectly true. The 
stem and stern must project a little above the gun- 
wale, with a slight curve in the centre or midships to 
improve the shape. 

The Hold, or Inside (fig. 7). Scoop out with a 
gouge very gradual- 
ly, first cleaning the 
sides all round, and | 
then you can hollow 
out the rougher portions more freely. 

The Deck (fig. 8) must be cut out of a thin piece 

of wood to the exact 

size of your yacht, 

I J o □ _ j> j iav ^ n g previously left 

a small ledge, as the 
dotted line in fig. 7, for it to rest upon. Having fit- 
ted your deck as neatly as possible, before securing 
it cut out the holes for the fore and aft-hatchway, 
companion, rudder, mast, and bitts for the windlass. 
Fix in firmly, but without glue ; painters' putty is 
the best to fill up any imperfection. 

Main-hatchway (fig. 9), Fore-hatchway (fig. 10), 




OS 



Companion or Binnacle (fig. 11). Cut out to form, 

Fig. 9. Fig. 10. ' Fig. 11. 



and insert the lesser ends of each into their respective 
holes. 

Having now completed the hull of your vessel, take 
a piece of sand-paper and polish it carefully all over. 

The Rudder and Tiller (fig. 12). Cut out to the 

i~!f* 2 ' proper shape and size, placing the small end 

t k through the hole in the stern ; fix with a piece 

J of strong thread or small string to the stern 

post of your yacht, about one-third from the keel ; 

next insert the tiller into the upper end of the rudder. 

Windlass and Bitts (fig. 13). Cut out, join toge- 
ther, and fix in the two holes 
in the fore part of fig. 8. 
Previous to proceeding with 
the masts and rigging you i 
had better first paint the 
hull with a priming of lead color all over, outside and 
in ; when dry, paint the inside of the bulwarks, deck 
and hatchways a light stone color ; the bottom, to 
about half way up the sides, copper color (mix a little 
of this with the deck color) ; and paint the companion 
and windlass, and the upper sides of the vessel, all 
black. 




CUTTER. 



69 



Figs. 14 and 15 are two stands cut out of pieces 
of wood to the shape of Fi ^ u - Fi s- 15 - 

the bottom of your 




yacht ; fix them about 
one-third from each end 
for it to rest upon. 

The Masts. 
For the Main-mast (fig. 16) get a straight piece of 
wood the length of the deck of your yacht, round 
it carefully, taking care to leave the projecting 
portions at the top of the trunk. These are 
called the tressel-trees. The upper portion or 
trunk is nearly square, with the edges just turn- 
ed ; a smaller square is left on the top of all, on 
which is afterwards fixed the cap. The lower 
end must be fined to a point to fix in the bot- 
tom of the vessel. 

The Gap (fig. 17), in small vessels, is gener- 
ally made of iron, but in larger ones of p 
wood bound with iron. To make it, get pig. 17. 
a small piece of tough wood, cut out a round and 
a small hole nearly close together, and cut to 
rig. i6. shape. 

The Cross-trees (fig. 18), are formed also of tough 

1H1 3 _ thin pieces of wood about the length of 

FIG.I8. the breadth of the deck. Large yachts 



70 the boy's own toy-maker. 

sometimes have two, but mostly only one ; they are 
secured to the top of the tressel-trees and are a sup- 
port to the 

Top-mast (fig. 19). This is about two-thirds the 
Fig. 19. length of the main-mast, and thinner in pro- 

I portion, gradually tapering towards the top, 
on which is fixed a small round cap ; there is 
a small square portion at the bottom through 
which passes a small pin or fid resting upon the 
tressel-trees ; the top of all is called the trunk. 
The Bowsprit (fig. 20) is also quite round, 
except the part which goes inside, which should 
be square, and not quite so thick as the main- 
mast ; at the inner end is a n i i 
small hole^ through which 

passes a pin to fix it to thebitts ; altogether it should 
be about two-thirds the length of the vessel. 

Main-loom (fig. 21). This also should be about 
S ^ — ■ — — Dl the length of the bow- 

Fig - 2L sprit, but much thin- 

ner ; the inner portion is a half circle which works 
round the main-mast ; at the outer ends are two 
blocks, one above and one below. 

Gaff (fig. 22). The same shape, only smaller and 
thinner in proportion, three g >a n r — ■ 

Fig. 22. 



CUTTEK. 71 

small blocks are fixed on the upper part, and one be- 
low at the end. 

The Yard (fig. 23) is a long thin spar, nearly the 
length of the main- rig. 23. 

mast, but not thick- ^ M. _X_ 

er than the top- 
mast; there is one block in the Tipper centre, and two 
below directly under the one above, and two small 
holes at each end passing downwards. 

To paint the Mast and Spars. — The main-mast 
from the bottom of the tressel-trees must be white 
upwards, also the bottom part of the top-mast-cap 
and cross-trees, the trunk of the top-mast, all the 
main-boom and gaff, a very small portion of the ex- 
treme end of the bowsprit, and all of it that is inside 
the yacht. 

To fix Mast and Bigging. — Having previously 
made a small hole in the bottom of the hull, correspond- 
ing with the one on deck, insert the lower end of the 
main-mast and fix it firmly, with a slight inclination 
backwards, and having made a hole in the front of the 
bulwarks close to the stem, place in the bowsprit from 
the inside. In large vessels an iron ring is attached 
to the stem, through which it also passes on the out- 
side. 



72 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



Standing Kigging (fig. 24). 

These ropes are so called from being generally 

stationary ; they are much thicker 

and stouter than any others, being 

used as supports a to the masts ; 

they are named //I as follows:- 

The Main- 
Shrouds (c) is 
three stout ropes 



rig gin g or 
co mposed of 
on each side of 




Standing Rigging. 

the mast, passing over the tressel-trees and down 



CUTTER. 73 

to the sides of the vessel. In large yachts, they pass 
round large blocks, called " dead eyes ; " these 
again are tightened by smaller ropes passing 
through another set of dead-eyes attached by 
iron hoops to the sides of the yacht. 

Buck-stays (d) are two ropes of the same 
thickness, and pass round the front of the main- 
mast to the back of the upper portion of the 
tressel-trees, half way down. They are made 
of the same thick rope as the shrouds. One end of 
the other smaller ropes is hooked to rings on each 
quarter of the vessel, passing upwards through the 
blocks above, down again, and round two other double 
blocks, which are tightened by smaller ropes passing 
through them to corresponding blocks a little in front 
of the other ends on each quarter. 

Fore-stay (&). — This is also made of the same stout 
cord; the upper end passing over 
the back of the top of the tressel- 
trees, and the lower end round a 
large dead-eye, and by smaller 
ropes attached to the stem of the 
cutter. 

Top-mast Bigging. — Having 
fixed the cap on the square of 




74 the boy's own toy-makek. 






the trunk of the main-mast, insert the narrow end of 
the top-mast first through the tressel-trees and then 
through the cap, and fix it by placing a small pin 
through the bottom of the top-mast. 

Top-mast stays (e e) secured to the trunk of the 
top-mast ; they come down on each side, and over the 
ends of the cross-trees, to the dead-eyes on each side 
of the yacht. 

Fore-top-mast stay (a). — This is also secured to 
the trunk, and passes through a block at the end of 
the bowsprit to the deck. 

The Bob-stay (g) is a support to the bowsprit, being 
fixed to the end, coming down to a cleet on one side 
of the stem, and secured on deck. 

Vane (/), fixed on the very top of the mast ; it 
moves round on a spindle, and points to the direction 
from which the wind blows. 

KuNNING KlGGING (fig. 25). 

The name given to ropes or halliards, for hoisting 
up and down the sails, &c; they are generally smaller 
than the standing rigging, and pass through blocks 
from two to four times each. 

Main-boom (e). — This is attached to the main-mast 
by a small rope passing through each end of the half 



CUTTER. 



75 



circle. The outer portion is supported by a rope pass- 
block at the top 
mast trunk, down 
ther block at the 
boom, and through 



mg from a 
of the main- 
through ano- 
end of the 
the upper one 
deck ; it is 
by the main- 
pa ssing 



again down to the 
kept in its place 
sheet (n), a rope 
through double 




Kunning Rigging. 

blocks — one being attached to the boom, and the other 
to an iron traveller on deck. 

TJie Gaff (d) is also secured to the mast in the 



76 THE BOY ? S OWN TOY-MAKER. 

same manner; but as it is required to hoist the main- 
sail up and down, it is furnished with a double block 
near where it joins the mast on the upper side, and 
two single blocks — one near the centre, and the other 
between that and the end of the yard ; also a small 
block at the extreme end downwards. 

The Mainsail Halliards (p) pass from a double 
block at the bottom of the trunk of the main-mast 
through another double block in the gaff, and from 
the upper again to the deck. 

Peak Halliards (c c). — These hoist up the outer 
end of the gaff and main-sail : they first pass from 
the third block below the top of the trunk of the 
main-mast, coming through the inner block on the gaff, 
up again and through the same block above, down 
through the outer block on the gaff and up again 
through the second block on the trunk of the main- 
mast. 

Jib Halliards (g). — A block with a hook is attached 
to a ring in the upper corner of the jib, through which 
passes a rope travelling from a block just in front of 
the cross-trees, and through these to the deck. 

Foresail Halliards (Ji), are secured to the fore- 
sail in the same manner as the jib, and also hoisted 
by two blocks ; the upper one attached just below the 
cross-trees. 



CUTTER. 77 

Jib Topsail Halliards (q). A single rope passes 
from the upper corner of the sail through a small 
block in the front of the trunk of the top-mast down 
to the deck. 

Gaff Top-sail Halliards (r) pass through a block 
in the top of the mast, and down to the deck. 

Half Top-sail Halliards (s) also pass through a 
hole in the top-mast, or through a small block there, 
and down to the deck. 

Square-sail Hallyards (t) are three in number ; 
one passes from the centre of the sail up through a 
block under the front of the cross-trees and down to 
the deck ; two others are hooked to each of the upper 
corners of the square-sail, passing through holes in 
each end of the yard ; they travel through blocks 
secured to the upper main-rigging just below the 
cross-trees. ^ 

The Sails (fig. 26). 

In all ships the sails are made of stout canvas, 
sewn together in long strips ; a rope is likewise sewn 
all round the outer-side, to give them additional 
strength. For your little yacht white calico will best 
answer your purpose. 

The Main-sail (a) is the largest ; the upper por- 
tion is laced through a series of small holes to the 



78 the boy's own toy-maker. 

gaff : being securely fastened at each end, it is at- 
tached to the mast by hoops which travel up and down. 

Fig. 26. 



The Sails. 
The Storm Mainsail (b) is made in the same way, 
only smaller altogether. 



CUTTER. 79 

The Fore-sail (c), like the main-sail is attached to 
hoops which travel up and down the fore-stay, and is 
hoisted up by blocks placed under the cross-trees. 

The Jib (p) is a sail on the bowsprit ; the lower 
end is hooked to a ring called a traveller, and hoisted 
up by blocks at the upper corner to others above the 
cross-trees. 

Storm Jibs (e, f, g and h) are made the same as 
the jib, but smaller in proportion. 

Jib Top-sail (i) ; same shape as jib, but also 
smaller ; it is laced to the fore-stay, and hoisted up 
to the top-mast head, the front corner being secured 
by a rope, passing through a small block at the end 
of the bowsprit, and from there to the deck. 

Square-sail (j), hoisted up by a block in the centre, 
passing through or under the cross-trees, and down to 
the deck, and one at each of the upper corners, through 
the ends of the yard, to the main-mast head, and down 
to the deck. 

Half Top-sail (k), hoisted up to the top-mast 
head, the outer lower corner passing through a hole 
at the end of the yard, and again through another 
block under the centre of the yard, and down to the 
deck; the inner lower corner of this sail is also brought 
down on deck. 

Gaff Top-sail (l), also hoisted up to top-nlast 



80 



head, the outer corner passing through a block or hole 
at the extreme end of the gaff, passing under it to 
another block near the mast, and down to the deck ; 
the inner lower corner also passes straight down by 
the mast. 

Reefs. — A series of short cords for the purpose of 
tying in a portion of the sails ; there are generally 
three rows in the main-sail and one in the fore-sail of 
yachts; none of the other sails have any. 

Reef-tackle. — These are to fasten the ends of the 
respective reefs to the main-boom. 

Sheets. — Used to haul in the sail, .and make it 
stand to the wind. 

Main-sheet is reefed through double blocks ; one is 
attached to the main-boom, and the other to a " horse/' 
or iron rod on deck. 

Fore-sheet.—- This also travels on an iron rod to 
either side of the vessel. 

Jib-sheets. — This sail has two — one on each side. 

Gaff Top-sail-sheet is reeved through a sheave at 
extreme end of the boom. 

Half Top- sail-sheet passes through a block at the 
end of the main-yard ; through another below the 
centre of the yard, and down to the deck. 

Jib Topsail-sheets. — This sail like the jib has two 
sheets — one on the port, and one on the starboard side. 



SCHOONEK. 




Next to the cutter the schooner is the favourite 
rig for yachtmen ; hut it is more adapted for vessels 
of larger size. The schooner has two masts, and they 
are in two parts each, the same as the cutter. The 
lower portion is called the fore-mast, and the after one 
the main-mast ; the upper portions are called the fore- 
top-mast, and the main-top-mast ; they are joined 
together as in the cutter, through a cap, and the 
6 



82 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



bottom of the top-masts secured to the tressel-trees, 
the main-mast being a little longer than the fore- 
mast. 

The main-mast is rigged similar to the one 
mast in a yacht, having a main-sail and booms, 
and over all a gaff top-sail. On the foremast it 
? has a fore and aft fore-sail ; in the front of the 
fore-mast it has three square yards : the lower 
one called the main-yard, the one above it is the 
top-sail-yard, and the upper one of all is the top- 
gallant-yard. The sails belonging to these are 
laced on the main and main-top gallant yards, 
le square-sail being only used in going before the 
wind, and it is hoisted up to 
the yard from the deck. "When 
the square-sail is not set, and 
the vessel sailing with a side- 
wind, the fore-stay-sail and 
jib are set, as shewn in the en- 
graving. 

Another distinctive feature 
between the cutter and the 
schooner is the bowsprit, where 
instead of being in one piece 
as in the former, it is in two ; the part attached to 




SCHOONER. 83 

the bow is called the bowsprit (1); there are two caps 




fixed on this, through which the outer portion, called 
the jib-boom (2), is hauled out. Two bob-stays (3) 
support the bowsprit to the cut-water, as well as two 
or more ropes, called guys or shrouds, which lead 
from the end of the bowsprit to the sides of the ves- 
sel (4), the jib-boom being in like manner supported 
by guys (5), with the addition of one through the 
dolphin-sticker (6), to the bow of the schooner. 

Vessels of this description are sometimes rigged 
without yards, occasionally using one large square- 
sail. The masts generally rake a little, and they sail 
very fast, particularly on a wind. 



84: the boy's own toy-maker. 



BKIG. 




Brigs and ships are distinguished as square-rigged 
vessels — the principal sails being set across the masts 
instead of fore and aft. Like the schooner, they have 
two masts ; the difference being that each mast has 
three distinct parts in the place of two, the lower por- 



BEIG. 



85 




!, 



T 



tions being called the fore-mast, and tlie after one the 
main-mast. The various 
parts are joined together 
similar to those already 
described in cutters and 
schooners, only the lower 
masts have, in the place 
of two cross-trees, two 
round tops ; they serve as 
greater supports to the 
main-top-mast, &c. Above 
the main-top-mast is the main-top-gallant- 
mast, and this is fixed to the former by a 
cap and cross-trees similar to those already 
described for a cutter : — 1, trunk, on which 
the royal is set ; 2, top-gallant-mast, on 
which the top-gallant-sail is set ; 3, the 
cap ; 4, cross-trees ; 5, top-mast, on which 
the top-sail is set ; 6, cap ; 7, round top ; 
8, main-mast. Both masts are alike, the 
after or main-mast being a little the longer. " 

The sails of a brig are — 1, the main-sail ; 2, main- 
top-sail ; 3, main-top-gallant-sail ; 4, main-royal ; 5, 
fore-sail ; 6, fore-top-sail ; 7, fore-top-gallant sail ; 
8, fore-royal ; 9, the spanker ; 10, the jib ; 11, fore- 
top-mast stay-sail ; 12, main-stay-sail ; 13, main- 



86 the boy's own toy-maker. 

top-mast stay-sail ; 14, main-top-gallant stay-sail ; 
15, fore-studding-sail, 16 ; fore-top-mast studding- 
sail ; 17, fore-top-gallant studding-sail. 

The same are used on tlie main-yard, and are 
called the main-top-gallant studding-sail, &c. ; these 
sails, however, are only used occasionally, in light 
winds and fair, as well as the flying-jib, 18. 

Brigs are much used in the merchant service, and 
in the coasting trade. Several thousands of this class 
of vessels are used in the coal trade alone. The cele- 
brated Captain Cook first went to sea in a small brig, 
which, until lately, might be seen as a river police 
station, moored in the Thames near Somerset House. 
Eobinson Crusoe, our young readers may remember, 
also first sailed in a brig. 



CLIPPEE SHIP. 




This is the manner in which all the largest ships 
are rigged ; formerly it was the custom to have very 
square-built vessels with very long masts ; but in the 
modern clipper ships they are much shorter in propor- 
tion to the extra length and sharpness of the vessel ; 
they also rake a little more. A ship has three masts, 
and all square-rigged. The description already given 
of a brig will answer for a ship, the two first masts 
being the same as well as the sails and their respective 
names ; the third mast is the same, but much shorter 
■ — it is called the mizen-mast, mizen-top-mast, mizen- 



88 THE boy's own toy-maker. 

top-gallant-mast, and mizen-royal. The sails are the 
mizen-top-sail, mizen-top-gallant-sail, mizen-royal, 
and spanker. 



A BAEK 

Is also a three-masted vessel ; 
but the difference from a ship is 
in the rigging of the mizen-mast, 
which instead of having square 
yards on all the three masts alike, 
the after one is rigged exactly like 
a sloop, being in two pieces, with 
cross-trees, and carrying a gaff 
top- sail ; they are preferred in the 
merchant service as they do not 
require so many hands to work 
them. 




AECHEET. 




One of the most ancient and universal of all 
weapons is the bow ; it is fre- 
quently alluded to in Holy Writ, 
and it is very remarkable that 
the shape of the modern bow is 
very nearly the same as we find 
it represented upon the early 
Egyptian sculptures. That of the 
Greeks and Eomans was also simi- 
lar in shape, but a little more orna- 




90 the boy's own toy-makek. 

merited. The early Saxon specimens and those of 
nearly every other nation appear to have been of the 
same form. 

By this simple but powerful weapon empires 
were anciently subverted, and England gained much 
of her fame by it. In the time of Edward III. the 
glory of the long-bow may be said to have been at 
its zenith, and that monarch appears to have been 
very anxious that its lustre should remain untarnish- 
ed. It was during this king's reign the famous battles 
of Oressy and Poictiers were fought ; the former on 
the 26th of August, 1346, and the latter on the 19th 
of September, 1356. Another signal victory, ascribed 
to the skill of the English archers, was at the battle of 
Agincourt ; this was under Henry V. in the year 1415. 

It is said that James I. of Scotland, during his 
confinement in England, was so struck with the spirit 
and gallantry of the English archers, that on return- 
ing to his own country, he established the Koyal 
Company of Edinburgh Bowmen. The society still 
exists, and is the Queen's Body Guard in Scotland 
at the present time. 

The Honourable Artillery Company of London 
owes its origin to a society of archers in the time and 
under the patronage of Henry VIII. They first held 
their meetings at Spitalfields ; but when the " fields " 



ARCHERY. 



91 



were broken up for bricks and buildings, the Artillery 
Company removed to Bunhill Fields, which they still 
retain under the original title of the New Artillery 
Ground. 

In 1682, there was a great cavalcade and grand 
entertainment given by the archers of Finsbury. 
Charles II. was present on the occasion, but the day 
being rainy he was soon obliged to leave the field. So 
late as 1753 targets were erected in Finsbury Fields 
during the Easter and Whitsun holidays, when the 
best shooter was styled captain for the ensuing year, 
and the second, lieutenant. 

The Cross-Bow 
Was also a popular weapon in England ; the arrows 




shot from it were called quarrels or bar-bolts, which 



92 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



is synonymous with the arrow of the long-bow ; it 
was fastened to the stock and discharged by means of 
a catch, or trigger, which most probably gave the 
notion of the lock of the modern musket. It is said 
they were used at the battle of Hastings, and Harold's 
death was caused by one of them. After the intro- 
duction of gunpowder the science of archery declined 
as a military art, but from the glory and renown 
which Englishman achieved by the use of the bow 
and arrow it is to this day practised in England, prin- 
cipally as a healthful and elegant accomplishment. 

How to make Bows and Arrows. The most easy 
method* is to take a common cane, cut a small notch 
near each end, and tie a piece of small cord or twine 

- :Fig - 1 - — thereto, giving it a slight 

«**^__ ^^"^^ curve, (fig 1). The best 

bows . are made of yew-tree, laburnum, acacia, or 
thorn. The wood ought to be free from knots-; two 
pieces are joined together, the back being of different 
wood to the front, and the grain reversed. The flat 
or outward part of a bow is called its back, and the 
inward part the belly ; the proper length for a 

Fig. 2. 



youth should be from four-and-a-half to five fee 



ARCHERY. 



93 



Fig. 3. 



the most finished have their ends tipped with horn 

(% 2). 

Arrows are generally made of white light wood, 
such as pine, ash, &c. ; the most finished are varnish- 
ed. The length of the arrow must be in proportion 
to the size of the bow ; the nicks of the best are cased 
with horn, and should fit the string exactly. The 
principal thing to be attended to is that they are per- 
fectly straight, and the feathers can be tied with a 
piece of strong thread, the lower portion being about 
half an inch from the end ; a 
grey goose feather is the best «^s 
of all for the purpose. 

It is not necessary for the young archer to have 
all the equipments of a complete bowman ; our object 
being to give such directions as will enable him to 
make a bow and arrow, and use them properly. Hav- 
ing made these, he must have an object to shoot at, 
and that is generally a target (fig. 
4). They are made of plaited straw 
bands wound round a centre and 
sewn together ; over this is placed 
paper or canvas, and painted 
white ; a series of four circles is 
then painted upon it at equal 




91 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



distances, the inner one is called the bull's-eye, and 
the great object is to hit this if possible. 

Position in shooting (fig. 5). The archer taking 
his stand before the target, his 
face being a little inclined to the 
right turning slightly round so 
that his eye and the target are in 
a direct line ; the body perfectly 
' upright, with the left foot slightly 
in advance, and holding the bow 
horizontally in the left hand, the 
fore-finger holding the arrow se- 
cure on the wooden part of the 
bow, in the centre — the right hand 
fixing the nick of the arrow on 
the string where it is held fast be- 
tween the first and second finger, 
the fore-finger on the left hand is next removed from 
the arrow, the centre of the bow grasped tightly, 
gradually raise the bow with the left hand, at the 
same time pulling the string by the right, and when 
the arrow is drawn about two-thirds of its length, 
the nick of it should be brought close to the right ear 
and the aim taken ; this must be done quickly, and 
it can only be done well by practice. 




TIP CAT. 




This is a common sport among boys ; more partic- 
ularly in the country; it has a great advantage in being 
easily made with a common knife. The piece of wood 
which is called the " cat " is about six inches in length 
and from one-and-a-half to two inches in diameter ; 
gradually tapering from the middle to each end. 

The cudgel with which the game is played is about 
the length and thickness of a common hoop-stick. The 
player taking this in his right hand strikes one end of 
the cat smartly, which causes it to rise in the air, high 
enough to be struck before it again falls to the ground. 

There are several ways of playing the game of cat. 
The most common is to make a ring, selecting a piece 
of flat ground ; one boy holds a piece of string that 
will make the circle required at the centre, and another 
boy taking the extremity of the string, and with a 
piece of chalk he walks round and forms the ring : the 



96 the boy's own toy-maker. 

player takes his stand in the middle, and his business 
is to strike the cat outside the ring ; should he fail in 
doing so he is out, and the next player takes his place. 
If successful he judges with his eye the distance the 
cat is driven from the centre of the ring, and calls for 
a number to be scored to his side, if the number named 
be found to exceed the same number of lengths of the 
stick he is out ; if on the contrary, it does not, he 
obtains his call. 

Another game is to make six or eight holes in a 
circular direction, and at equal distances from each 
other ; at every hole the players take their stations, 
with their sticks; one on the other side, tosses the cat 
to the nearest bat-man, and every time the bat is 
struck the players must change their positions, and 
run once from one hole to another. If the cat is sent 
a great distance, they continue to run in the same 
order claiming a score towards their game every time 
they change from one hole to another. If the cat is 
stopped and thrown between any two of the players, 
and it crosses him after he has left one hole and be- 
fore he reaches the next he is out. 



POP-GUN. 



Select a straight piece of an old branch of the 
elder-tree ; cut it about six or eight inches long. The 
pith in the inside is then forced out with an iron ram- 
rod, or one made of hard wood turned or cut to this 
shape. 



The Pellets are made with moistened tow or brown 
paper ; when the pellet is prepared it should be laid 
over the mouth of the gun in sufficient quantity to 
require squeezing or plugging in. The first pellet must 
be driven through the gun to its other end, and the 
second again driven in a similar manner. When 
forced through the gun, the air between the pellets 
being incompressible beyond a certain point, forces 
out the lower pellet with a loud pop, from which the 
name of pop-gun is taken. 



98 



THE BOYS OWN TOY-MAKER. 



SLING. 



This, which is a mere toy in modern days, was 
in ancient times a formidable 
weapon of war ; and as late as 
the battle of Hastings, was used 
in the English army. It is ex- 
tremely simple in its construc- 
tion, and even now, by dexterous 
and expert throwing, its results 
are astonishing. 

It is made of a leathern 
thong, broadest in the middle, 
and tapering off gradually to- 
wards the ends, sometimes a 
small hole is cut in the centre to 

fix the stone upon. A piece of strong string, or small 

cord, is fastened through a hole at 

each end, one of which has a loop 

at the end, which is put on to the 

middle finger of the right hand, 

and the extremity of the other string is held between 





SLING. STILTS. 99 

the fore-finger and thumb ; it is then whirled round 
and round until it has gained sufficient impetus, and 
suddenly letting go the string held between the finger 
and thumb, the stone is shot forth with great velocity. 



STILTS. 



This is a favourite out-door amusement among 
boys at the present time. To a casual observer it ap- 
pears rather a dangerous sort of sport, but it is not 
so ; with a little practice it is extremely easy. Many 
of the shepherds in the desert of Landes, in the south 
of France, use them with perfect freedom and great 
rapidity; constant habit enables them to preserve their 



100 



balance so well that they run, jump, stoop, and dance 
with the greatest ease and security. They are by 
their stilts enabled to see their flocks at a much greater 
distance, over a perfectly flat country, their feet being 
perfectly protected from the water during the winter, 
and the heated sand in summer. In addition to the 
stilts, they use a long staff, which they carry in their 
hands ; this guards them against an accidental trip, 
and forms a third leg when they require to rest. 

To make stilts. — Procure two poles, about six or 
seven feet long, and nail on a strap of leather, about 
one-third from the bottom of each ; into these Fig. i. 
the feet -are placed, the poles being kept in a 
proper position by the hands, and moved for- 
ward by the action of the legs. A wooden 
step, however, is better, and it gives greater 
Fig. 2. firmness to the tread ; it is nailed or 
screwed to the poles. But the best of 
all are those that do not reach the hands, but 
are secured to the leg just below the knee 
by a strap, the foot-step being the same as 
fig. 2. With \hQ addition of a long staff any 
boy could soon manage to walk in safety upon 
them. 




ANGLING. 

Kods, Lines, Floats, Hooks, and Baits. 

There is no recreation more agreeable and de- 
lightful than angling. It is as much enjoyed by the 
chubby rustic child, with his pin hook and rod of hazel, 
in the quiet shady pool, as it is by the wealthy of the 
land in their most favourite preserves. There is a 
healthful exercise in its pursuit both for body and 
mind ; and the impressions left on the memories of 
those who have " paidled in the burn/' and fished in 
cool streams and meandering rills in their early days, 
must always be remembered with feelings of extreme 
gratification. Angling is almost an instinct with most 
boys, particularly those brought up in the country, 
and as every boy may be an angler if he pleases, it 
will be useful for him to know how he may make his 
own fishing tackle. 

Bods. — These are made to great perfection, and may 
be had of every variety from the professional makers, 
but as they are generally expensive for a boy, with a 



102 the boy's own toy-maker. 

little trouble and skill, he will Tbe able to make one 
that will answer his purpose as well as the most costly. 
For the very young angler, a hazel stick will make a 
good rod for fishing for small fish, such as sticklebacks, 
minnows, &c. Having selected as straight a one 
as possible, a common knife is all that is required to 
polish it into shape. 

The next best rod that a boy may make for him- 
self is formed of two pieces — the bottom of ash, and 
the top of lance-wood ; these, if properly tapered, and 
not too heavy, will be found to have an equal and 
regular spring ; and the two pieces can be firmly bound 
together, by splicing the two ends and binding them 
together tightly with waxed silk or small string. 



The best rods, however, are made of bamboo cane 
with tops of various lengths : twelve feet will be 
found a convenient length, but they are sometimes 
made to fourteen and even sixteen feet long. The 
great point is to have a rod as free as possible from 
imperfections, and tapering gradually from the but- 
end to the top. They may be fitted as walking-sticks, 
or made to pack in canvass bags. 



ANGLING. 103 

Lines are sometimes made of twisted silk, or silk 
and hair. Horse-hair is the best material ; those 
made of silk and hair retain the water. Brown, grey, 
and white are the best colours. Three yards will be 
found the most useful length for a young angler. 

In fly-fishing, the bottom or casting line which is 
fixed to the line upon the reel, should be nearly the 
length of the rod ; it should be made of gut, fine at 
the bottom or " dropper," and strong at the top. 
The length of the line required to throw, varies of 
course with the river, and the spot you wish to throw 
to, but about twice the length of the rod will generally 
be found sufficient. 

Floats, — For small fish and slow waters quill floats 
are the best ; they are made of various sizes, the ends 
being painted blue or red. 

Plugged Floats are made with a goosa-quill, and 
a wooden plug at the bottom. 

Tip-capped Float is one of the best that can be 
used ; it is made of quills 
or reeds for the middle, and 
ivory or tortoise-shell for the top and bottom— narrow 
at the ends, and gradually increasing in circumfer- 
ence to the middle, 

Cork Float.— -Take a sound cork, and bore it 
through the middle with a, red-hot iron, put in a quill 



104 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



to fit it, and cut it to the 

shape of a pear ; grind it 

smooth with pumice-stone, and paint or colour it in 

whatever way you please. 

Shotting the Line. — These are to make the float 
partially sink in the water ; place them all together, 
within three inches of the bottom of the loop of the 
line, fix the loop of the hair to which, the hook is tied, 
and place two very small shots, about two inches from 
the hook, which will cause the bait to swim steadily, 
and the others above the first loop. 

Reel. — This is a necessary addition, to large rods 
particularly ; it enables you to 
play your fish with more ease 
and certainty, and to reach 
places which, without its assist- 
ance, you could not attempt. 
They may be had of various constructions at the 
tackle-shops. 

Hooks. — There are four kinds of hooks : — the 
Sneckbend, the Limerick, the Kendal, and the Kirby. 
There is a great variety of opinion as to the relative 
merits of each among the best anglers, some prefer- 
ring one to the exclusion of the others. The Kirby, 
however, is one that we can recommend ; its shape is 
well adapted for hooking and holding the fish. The 




ANGLING. 105 

hooks are numbered from the largest (No. 1) to the 
smallest (13), according to size. The hooks most 
suitable for the following fish are — 



Minnow 


. . 13 


Flounders 


.6 


Shiner 


13 


Perch . 


4 


Sunfish 


... 13 


Eels 


. 4 


Loach 


13 


Carp 


3 


Gudgeon . 


.12 


Trout 


. 3 


Roach 


10 


Blackfish 


4 



In tying on hooks, you must use strong but fine 
silk ; it must be as near the colour of your bait as 
possible. Wax the silk well with shoemaker's w r ax, 
and then wrap it three or four times round the body 
of the hook — the gut or hair being on the inside of 
the hook — and then wrap the silk tightly round it, 
about three parts down the hook. 

Plumbing the Depth. — Much of the success of the 
angler in bottom-fishing, depends upon his 
knowing the proper depth. This is done by 
a plummet ; they are of two kinds. The fold- 
ing plummet will be found the most conve- 
nient ; it is made of a slip of sheet-lead folded 
up. To fix it on the line, unfold it about two inches, 
pass the hook over the side, and then fold the plum- 
met up again. When the plumb-lead touches the 
bottom, and the top of the float is even with the sur- 
face of the water, you will have the correct depth. 




106 



THE BOYS OWN TOY-MAKER. 



Baits. — Worms are the most natural baits, and 
nearly every fish will take them. If the river is at 
all muddy it is the best bait that can be used. The 
principal are — 



Lob-worm. 

Brandling. 

Meadow-worm. 

Tag-tail. 

Ash-grub. 

Cow-dung Bait. 

Caterpillar. 

Cabbage-worms. 

Maggots. 

Cad Bait. 



Flag-worms. 

Grasshoppers. 

Wasp-grub. 

Beetles. 

Paste Baits. 

Salmon Spawn. 

White Bread-paste. 

Cheese-paste. 

Wheat-paste. 

Ground Bait. 



During spring and autumn these may be used any 
time of the day, but in the summer only early in the 
morning or late in the evening. 

To scour and preserve Worms. — Procure a quan- 
tity of fresh moss, wash out all the earth, and squeeze 
it, but not too dry; press it tightly down in a jar, and 
throw the worms upon it. Gentils should be thrown 
into a mixture of damp sand and bran, to clean them; 
and they will be ready for use in two days. 



ANGLING. 107 



FLY-FISHING. 

To be an expert fly-fisher is generally the ambition 
of the most enthusiastic angler ; it requires much more 
neatness and skill than for bottom-fishing, and it is 
assuredly more gratifying in its results. The learner, 
if possible, should go out with some experienced angler, 
watch his movements closely, and imitate them as 
well as he can. He should begin with the line only, 
not putting on any flies, trying a short line first, and 
lengthening it gradually ; the rod should be carried 
gently back, without effort, and thrown forward again 
when the line has reached its full extent behind him ; 
great care must be taken in doing this or the fly will 
be whipped off when he comes to use one. After at- 
taining tolerable proficiency in this, the learner may 
then put on one fly, and fish for a while with that, 
adopting two or three when he is able to use them pro- 
perly. The great art is to drop the fly lightly, that 
it may resemble a natural fly settling upon the water. 
Suffer the line to float gently down the stream, at the 
same time dragging it towards you to your left hand. 

The best time for angling with the fly, is when 
there is a gentle breeze upon the water ; south and 



108 



west winds are to be preferred. The best time of day 
is morning or evening. You must be careful not to 
go near the bank, for fish are very quick of sight. If 
you see a rise, throw your fly about half a yard above, 
and let it fall with the stream, watching it narrowly, 
and strike the moment the fish rises ; when you have 
hooked one, play him carefully, keeping up his head 
and running him down the stream, at the same time 
drawing him towards you ; a smaller fly is required 
when the water is smooth. 

The materials required to make Artificial Flies. 
— Feathers of the grouse, snipe, duck, bittern, golden 
plover, jay, starling, and peacock. Furs of all colours, 
from the skins of squirrels, moles and water-rats ; 
camel's hair, hare's ear, and fur from the neck of the 
marten ; mohairs of different shades, and camlets ; 
black horse-hair, hog's down, dyed various colours ; 
gold and silver twist, and sewing silk of all colours 
and thicknesses ; a pair of fine-pointed scissors, and 
small pliers. 



Flies. 

In making your fly, imitate as much as possible 
the natural fly you wish to represent. Having a hook 



ANGLING. 109 

the right size, a feather of the proper colour, stripped 
elown on each side, leaving just as much as will do for 
the wings at the fine end ; a piece of fine gut, free 
from imperfections, and properly tested as to its 
strength ; dubbing, or hackle, and a piece of fine 
silk, well waxed with shoemaker's wax ; then, hold- 
ing the hook in the left hand, wrap the silk round 
the bare hook two or three times, and put the finest 
end of the gut on the under side of the hook. If for a 
hackle-fly, begin at the bend and work up to the 
head ; after turning three or four times round the 
hook and gut, fasten in the hackle and continue the 
winding of the silk until it reaches the end of the 
hook, then turn it back two or three times to form 
the head; the dubbing must now be twisted round the 
silk, and wrapped upon the hook for nearly half the 
proposed length of the body; fasten it there by a single 
loop, that both hands may be at liberty to manage the 
hackle ; when sufficient feathers are wound upon the 
hook, the* remainder should be held under the thumb 
of the left hand, and the entangled fibres picked out 
with a needle. The silk and dubbing must now be 
twisted over the end of the hackle until the body of 
the fly is of the length required. If gold or silver 
twist is used, the twist should be fastened to the lower 
end of the body before the dubbing is applied to the 



110 



silk. To make a winged fly the same plan is adopted in 
tying on the hook ; then take the feather which is to 
form the wings and place it even on the upper side of 
the shank, with the roots pointing towards the bend 
of the hook : fasten the feather by winding the silk 
over it, and cut the loose ends close with a pair of 
scissors, divide the wings as equally as possible with 
a needle, passing the silk two or three times between 
them to make them stand in a proper position ; carry 
the silk down the shank of the hook the proposed 
length of the body and fasten it, then apply the 
dubbing to the silk and twist it towards the wings ; 
fasten in the hackle for the legs, and wind it neatly 
under the wings so as to hide the ends of the cut 
fibres ; the silk must be fastened above the wings. 

The fly at the end of the line is called a stretcher, 
and the next the dropper. The first dropper should 
be about a yard from the stretcher, and the second 
Fig. 1. , , t about three quarters of a yard 
from the first; made*on pieces 
of gut four inches long, to de- 
tach at pleasure. 

Green or May-fly (fig. 1). 
— The wings are made of the 
light feather of a grey drake, 
dyed yellow ; the body of amber-coloured mohair, rib- 




ANGLING. 



Ill 



bed with green silk ; the head of peacock's harl ; and 
the tail of three long hairs from a sable muff. This 
is one of the most killing flies for trout ; it generally 
rises about the end of May, and continues for about 
three weeks; it is found in great plenty in sandy, gra- 
velly rivulets. 

Great White Moth (fig. 2). — The wings are made of 
a feather from the wing of a Fig . 2 . 

white owl ; the body of white 
cotton ; and a white cock's 
hackle wrapped round the 
body. This is a night fly, 
and should be used in a dark, 
gloomy night. 

Bee-fly (fig. 3). — This is an excellent chub-fly, and 
is in use during the summer months. 
The wings are made from the feathers 
of a blue pigeon's wing ; the body of 
chenil of various colo- .rs, arranged in 
stripes in the following order : — black, 
white, light yellow, white, Fig. 4 

black and white ; the legs of 
a black hackle; and the body 
dressed thick. 

Stone-fly (fig. 4).— The 
wings are made of a dusky 







112 THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEK. 

blue cock's hackle, or a mottled feather from a hen- 
pheasant; the body of dark brown, and yellow camlet, 
mixed ; and a grizzled hackle for the legs ; the wings 
must lie flat. It appears about the middle of April, 
and may be used at any time of the day. 

Grey Drake (fig. 5). — The wings are made of 
Fig. 5. a dark grey feather of the 

mallard ; the body of white . 
ostrich's harl, striped with 
dark silk ; the head of pea- 
cock's harl ; and the tail of 
three hairs from a sable muff. It appears about the 
same time as the green drake, or a little earlier. It 
kills best from three till dusk. 

Bed Palmer (fig. 6). — The body of this is made 
of dark red mohair, ribbed with gold Fig. 6. 
twist, and wrapped with a red cock's 
hackle. Palmers are all good killing 
baits, and may be used all the fishing 
season. 

We give these specimens for the young angler to 
practice upon. When he has accomplished the art of 
fly-making, he will prefer making them after his own 
fashion, and it is always best to make the fly you wish 
to imitate — one that you know frequents the locality 




ANGLING. 



113 



you propose fishing in. The following flies are also 



favourites with the best anglers :- 



Black Gnat. 
Hare's Ear. 
Whirling Dun. 
Cock Tail. 
Peacock Palmer. 
Black Silver Palmer. 
Bed Ant. 
Governor. 
Gold Spinner. 
Oak Fly. 
Yellow Sally. 
March Brown. 



Willow Fly. 

Haze Fly. 

Fern Fly. 

Black Palmer. 

Black Palmer ribbed with 

gold. 
Orl Fly. 
Blue Gnat. 
Little Iron Blue. 
Gravel or Spider Fly. 
Granham or Green Tail. 
Whirling Blue. 



Scapp or Landing Net, — The ring of this can be 




made of a common cane, to which is fastened a small 
net, with a long pole or straight piece of wood for the 
handle. A ring made of iron or stout wire is better, 
when it can be procured. 



8 



114: THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



BABBIT HUTCHES. 

Babbits have always been great favourites with 
boys, and are not only a pleasant, but often may 
be made a profitable amusement. The domestic rab- 
bits are of various colours. A variety of the hare- 
colour, that has much bone, long body, long ears, and 
large eyes, much resembling the hare, which they 
nearly equal in size, is in flesh considered superior to 
the common rabbit. 

When choosing young ones to rear for does, take 
those that have the smallest litter. When six weeks 
old they may be removed from the doe, and placed in 
hutches two and two, until they are four months old, 
and after that time they must be kept separate. Does 
with long heads and ears are the best, and give the 
most milk. There are many varieties of fancy rabbits, 
but the lop-eared is the most popular; these also have 
many varieties, such as the up-eared, the forward or 
horn-lop, the oar-lop, and the real lop. Our young 
readers must please themselves as to the kind of rab- 



RABBIT HUTCHES. 



115 



bits they prefer to rear; our object is rather to instruct 
how to make houses for them, which are called 

Hutches. — The most easily constructed can be made 




out of an old tea or egg-chest; one-third being divided 
by a partition for a sleeping-place — a hole being cut 
in it sufficiently large for the rabbit to pass through. 
A sliding door must be made in the partition, to con- 
fine the rabbits during the time of cleaning. Stout 
wires must be driven into the top and bottom of the 
hutch for the front, about an inch apart, and the door 
put on with two leather hinges, and fastened with a 
latch or buckle. 

More finished hutches may be constructed for 
fancy rabbits on the same plan, with the addition of 
a drawer for the food ; this should be tinned round 
the edges ; also the circular hole in the partition, as 
well as every other part of the inside of the hutch, 
which the rabbits can bite with their teeth. The 



HQ THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 

bottom should be quite smooth, with a slip taken off 




the lower part, and the hutch set a little backwards 
for the water to run off. 

The Buck's Hutch is generally made of quite a 
different shape to that of the doe's or breeding hutches, 
but there does not appear any good reason for its 

being so. The form is 
something of the shape of 
a Dutch oven, with very 
little room for exercise. 
One made on the same 
plan as already described 
for does, with the wires a little stronger, should 
be more generally used, as the separate apartment 




RABBIT HUTCHES. 117 

enables the rabbit to exercise himself when he pleases. 
The buck must always be kept in an apartment of his 
own. 

Hutches may be set one upon another, or in rows, 
as most convenient ; they should never be placed upon 
the ground, but elevated upon wooden stools or bench- 
es ; and not put close to the wall, but sufficient room 
left for the dung to pass off from the apertures made 
in the back of the floor. They should be kept in a 
dry place, exposure to humidity being fatal to rabbits. 
Fresh air and thorough draught are necessary. 



BIED TEAPS. 



Birds of all kinds are great favourites both with 
young and old. The splendour of their colours, the 
melody of their sweet voices, and the wonderful art 
with which they construct their nests, inspire a love 
and admiration to the great Creator of all. Without 
going into the natural history of the various singing- 
birds, we shall confine ourselves to the means of catch- 
ing them. There are different modes ; the most com- 
mon for boys is the 



118 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 





Brick Trap. — It is made of four bricks — two being 
placed lengthways upon their narrow ends, and the 
third in like manner across one 
end ; the fourth being placed be- 
tween the two sides, so as to form 
a cover or lid. A forked twig is 
placed horizontally, and rests upon 
the edge of the front brick — the lid or top brick 
beng supported by a short piece of wood 
resting upon the narrow end of the fork. 
The weight of the bird alighting on the , 
forked branch destroys the equilibrium, 
and the brick falls, and forms a close box in which 
the bird is a prisoner. A few bread crumbs or oats 
should be first put in as a bait at the bottom of the 
trap. 

Sieve Trap. — This is another simple and readily- 
constructed trap. A large sieve 
is propped up at an angle with a 
stick, to which is attached a 
^ piece of string at the middle. 
Having strewn your bait under 
the sieve, take the end of the string, and conceal 
yourself behind a tree or wall, and when you observe 
the bird well under the sieve, quickly jerk the line, 
removing the stick, which causes the trap to fall over 
the bird. 




BIRD TRAPS. 119 

The Springle. — This is an excellent trap, but more 
complicated to make. Take a hazel rod, four feet 
long, thick at one end, and tapering towards the other, 
and fix a piece of string, about fourteen inches in 
length, to the small end ; it must be shaved off a, 
little on one end to fit the notch in the spreader. 

The Spreader is a small bent switch about a foot 
and a half in length; make a notch at the thick- 
est end to receive the small one, and fasten it 
within an inch of the thicker end. 

The Catch is a small piece of wood half an inch 
long, about half as broad, and a quarter as thick. 

The Noose is a slip-knot of stout horse-hair, \ 
fastened to the end of the string below the catch. 

fjl The Stump is made of a short stake of 

feijtfwood a few inches in length fixed firmly into 
j* 55 ' the ground ; the head remaining about an 
inch above the surface. 

The Bender is also a pliant switch of hazel, the 
ends of which are fixed in the 
ground, forming an arch. -^^^^^^^ 

To set the Springle. — The" 
stump must be driven firmly into the ground, and 
the bow of the spreader over it, the bight being in 
contact with it. Fix the two ends of the bender 
securely into the ground, about the length of the 




120 the boy's own toy-maker. 

former from the stump. The thick end of the springer 
is next fixed in the ground a short distance from the 

bender, and the 
small end bent 
down till you can 
put one end of the 
catch upwards, and 
on the outside of the bender. The spreader being 
raised about an inch from the ground, and the smaller 
end of the catch being placed in the notch, to support 
it. The horse-hair slip-knot is next arranged around 
it, and the trap is complete. 

A little seed is scattered inside and around the 
trap, and the bird being attracted to it perches upon 
the spreader, which falls with its weight, and the 
catch being set at liberty flies up, and the bird is 
caught in the noose ; care, however, must be taken to 
remain at a short distance to take your bird quickly, 
or in his efforts to escape he might be strangled, or 
flutter himself to death. 

Liming a Tivig. — One of the most simple modes 
of catching birds is with bird-lime ; it may be pur- 
chased in towns of the bird-fanciers, oilmen, or drug- 
gists. A branch of a tree is first taken and trimmed 
of the leaves, and then coated all over with the bird- 
lime ; a cage in which are your call-birds is then fixed 



BIRD TRAPS. 121 

in a low hedge, and the smeared bough is placed over 
it. The wild birds being decoyed to the twigs, you 
conceal yourself somewhere near, and when the birds 
alight on the tree they stick fast, and you must lose 
no time in securing them. 

The London bird-catchers use a large net — some 
as much as twelve yards long, and about two wide ; 
they are spread upon the ground, and decoy-birds 
placed in small cages, at short distances from the net. 
The wild birds being attracted to the spot, the bird- 
catcher watches his opportunity, and closes them in 
by a sudden pull of the strings which he holds in his 
hands at some distance from the trap. 

When birds are taken, they should be first placed 
in a dark place, or the cage covered over for a time, 
or they may seriously injure themselves by fluttering 
about in the cage. The best time for catching birds 
is early in the morning, soon after daylight ; for after 
that time the birds are too busy looking after their 
food to be easily attracted by your decoys. 



122 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



BATTLEDOKE AND SHUTTLECOCK. 



^rx /N 




This is an old and favourite sport ; it is also a 
very healthy pastime. In the time of James I., it 
was a fashionable game amongst grown-up persons. 
The Chinese play at it with their feet, hands, and 
elbows, and keep the cocks up in a most extraordi- 
nary manner. The practice of the game in this 
country is to keep the shuttlecock in the air by strik- 
ing it from one person to another. 

Battledores, as the name implies, were formerly 
all made of wood ; they may be easily cut out of a piece 



BATTLEDORE AND SHUTTLECOCK. 123 

of flat board, not thicker than a quarter of an inch — 
the spades about five inches in length, and the same 
in breadth ; the handles about six or seven inches 
long ; and they will serve 
every purpose for young be- ^ 
ginners to practise upon. 
The best kind is made as follows : procure a slip of 
lance-wood, about sixteen inches long, an inch and a 
half broad, and a quarter of an inch thick, the edges 
of the outside slightly rounded ; to make it bend to 
to the shape of the spade of the battledore, cut a 
slight nick, about an inch apart, all along the inside, 




1 1 I 1 I I I I 1 i 1 I i 1 ! 1 M I 1 TTTZ 3 

and not quite half way through the wood ; boil or 
steam it with hot water, and it will curve to the shape, 
the two ends being beveled off to fit to the handle ; this 
must be previously prepared quite round, 
except at the end to which the spade is at- 
tached, which must be quite square at the 
sides, and tapering a little at the extreme 
end. The spade end must then be glued to 
the two sides of the handle, and afterwards firmly 

bound round the join with fine waxed string ; it must 

* ^ 

then be allowed to dry ; in the meantime prepare 




124 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 




your covering of parchment, cut round to the shape of 
the spade, with a margin large enough to turn over the 
wood-work. The ends to turn over nicely, must be 
cut out in this form ; the skin must then 
be soaked in water, the damp taken off, 
and the ends glued round the wood- 
work, and when dry you will have a 
superior battledore. The handle may 
be finished off by binding a strip of coloured 
leather or velvet all round it. 

To make a Shuttlecock. — Cut a piece of \ 
sound cork to this shape, in it fix a 
short brass-headed nail at the lower 
end. Procure five grey goose feathers, 
about four and a half inches long, not too 
full, and all the same size ; fix the ends of 
these into the top of the cork in a circle — 
each one standing in an oblique direction to 
the other, and your shuttlecojQk \yith the 
battledore will be ready for play. 






ARROW PARACHUTE. 



This is an admirable contrivance to raise the para- 
chute up in the air. We have already described the 

most common way of making them. 

There is, however, a difficulty at all 

times in getting them to ascend ; but 

by the means hereafter detailed, that 

obstacle is entirely removed. 

To make one ? you must procure a 

piece of thin, coloured paper, and cut 

out the form of the parachute (see 

page 12) ; then taking or making an 

arrow, rather long in the shaft (see 

page 93), cut out a small hole at the 

top of the paper, insert it over the end of the 
arrow, and fix it there with a little gum or paste, 
about an inch from the top ; attach pieces of 
thread to the^extreme corners of the paper, and 
tie them together about half way up the shaft of 
) the arrow, and when completed it will resemble 
a parasol or umbrella closed. When shot up 
with a common bow, it will ascend a great height, 
and in coming down again it will open out, and 
sail away to a great distance. 




126 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



TBAP, BAT, AND BALL. 





This is also an old English game. As early as the 
fourteenth century we have traces of its existence. 
The old method of playing was much the same as it 
is in the present time, only the trap was a little ele- 
vated, and not placed on the ground as it 
now is, commonly in the shape of a shoe. 
The trigger being struck at the extreme 
end forces upwards the spoon containing 
the ball, the motion describing a small arc or curved 
line ; when free from the spoon the ball rises in a 
right line, and is projected forward in the same direc- 
tion it was taking when set free. 

The game is played in various ways. The usual 
plan is to choose sides, tossing up for the innings, 
boundaries being placed at a given distance .from the 
trap ; the batsman must send his ball over the line, 



127 



or he is out ; he is also out if he strikes the ball into 
the air, and it is caught by an opposite player, or if 
it is bowled back and hits the trap ; or if he strikes at 
the ball twice without hitting it ; he is out, and 
another player takes his place. In many parts there 
is a practice, when the bowler has sent in the ball, for 
the striker to guess the number of bats' lengths it is 
from the trap, if he guess correctly he reckons that 
number towards his game, but if more than there 
really are, he loses his innings. 

In playing, the trigger must not be struck too 
forcibly, but just sufficient to rise the ball about a 
foot, or a little more, above the trap ; you may catch 
it once or twice in your hand before you call play, 
which will enable you to judge better where to take 
your stand, and strike the ball with the utmost force, 
and observe in which direction you should send it 
with the least chance of its being caught. Take plenty 
of time before you attempt to hit the ball ; young 
players are apt to be in too great a hurry. Ycu will 
have sufficient time to take a good aim, and strike the 
ball in the act of falling. 

To make a Trap, Bat and Ball. — The trap must 
first be cut out of a soft piece of wood about seven 
or eight inches in length, in the shape and in the 
proportion of an ordinary shoe ; hollow out the heel 



128 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEE. 




about half way down, and one-third at the toe, 

through which drill a small 
hole ; in the hollow is fixed 
the spoon end of the trigger, 
which holds the ball — it is 
secured by an iron or wooden 
pin, which acts as a fulcrum. The trigger, or tongue, 
is cut out of a piece of 
wood of this shape, a hole 
being drilled through the thick part, and the spoon 
end slightly curved out to hold the ball. 

The Ball. The directions given at page 130 will 
do for the purpose. 

The Bat. — The spoon- shaped is the one now most 
used by players ; it is made out of a piece of flat wood 
about an inch thick, and in the 
form of the cut, but they vary ac- 
cording to taste or fashion. 



BALLS. 




Games played with, balls are of great antiquity. 
The Greeks used four kinds, viz. : the little ball, the 
great ball, the empty ball, and the leathern ball. The 
empty ball was blown up with air, something like the 
foot-ball of the present time ; and the leathern ball 
was stuffed with sand or bran, and suspended from 
the ceiling. The Eomans, also, had four kinds of 
balls, and it is stated that Augustus Caasar, particu- 
larly, was greatly delighted with the amusement. 

Hand 'Ball or Fives. This was formerly a very 

popular pastime in England ; in modern times it has 

been partially superseded by the use of the racket. 

For boys, the hand-ball has all the advantages of ex- 

9 



130 the boy's own toy-maker. 

ercise, and does not require so high a wall or regular 
ground as for racket. The game is played with the 
palm of the hand ; two or more take sides, the best 
players being nearest the wall ; a chalked line being 
previously drawn upon it, about two feet from the 
ground, and the great art is just to send the ball over 
the line, and keep it within the boundaries. 

To make a Hand-Ball. Take a piece of India- 
rubber, or cork, about the size of a large marble, and 
wind round it worsted till you have worked it quite 
round, and about the size of an ordinary orange ; fix 
the end by lacing it under the layers, and without 
making a knot. For an ordinary game the ball will 
then do, but if you wish to preserve it, or make a 
more finished work of it, you must cover it with soft 
leather, and make all as tight as possible that it may 
rebound easier. 

Backet Balls may be made in the same way. It is 
stated that this game was introduced into England 
during the reign of Henry III., by persons of rank 
and family, who erected what are called tennis courts, 
for the performance of the exercise. 

Foot-Ball. Formerly this game was the popular 
holiday amusement. It is a most exciting sport, the 
best place for it being a large field or common. Any 
number may play at it. When a match is made, each 



BALLS. 



131 



party takes a side, till equally divided in numbers ; 
two sticks being driven into the ground for the goal, 
a few feet apart. The skill of the players is best dis- 
played by attacking and defending the goals. Shins 
occasionally suffer, and the exercise is sometimes ex- 
ceedingly violent. 

To make a Foot-Ball. Take a large bladder, steep 
it in water, blow it out by the aid of a piece of pipe 
and tie it tightly round the neck with string ; being 
satisfied that it is perfectly air-tight, you must untie 
the string and empty the bladder again. You must 
then proceed to place it in a leathern 
case, which ought also to be soaked in 
water, to make it work more easily 
into form. Insert the lower end of the 
bladder into the hole in the leather, 
fill it again with air, and tie the neck- 
string, and it will then be more like 
two balls than one. You next take a firm hold of 
the outer portion of the bladder, and 
twist it round, gradually driving all the 
air into the lower part in the leathern 
case, and the shape will be further de- 
veloped. The outside portion must then 
be forced gently into the case, and a 
tongue of leather placed over the ori- 





132 the boy's own toy-makek. 

fice ; the whole must be laced together, and your ball 
will be ready for use. 

India-rubber, which appears to be coming into use 
for almost everything, is now much used for making 
all kinds of balls. „ 



THE BOOMERANG. 



This is an instrument lately introduced into this 
country from Australia. It is said to be used by the 
natives with great skill and dexterity ; so much so as 
to kill a man behind a tree. If skilfully thrown, it 
may be made to go in any direction, and after striking 
the desired object it will return to the thrower. It 
should be held horizontally when thrown, and cast by 
bringing the arm backwards. 

It is made of a curved piece of wood, flat on one 

side, and a little rounded 
on the other. It is so 
simple, and its results so 
extraordinary, that it has already become very popu- 
lar in this country. . 




GOLFING. 

In Scotland this game is much practised at the 
present time. It is much the same as a rustic game 
of the Komans, and is played with a long club, and a 
small ball made of leather and stuffed with feathers. 
The game is played with two or more persons- — there 
being an equal number on each side ; only two balls 
are used, one belonging to each party, and each one 
striking in turn ; if the last striker does not send the 
ball as far as his opponent, the next one of the same 
party must then strike one, and so on, count- 
ing one, two, or three, as the case may be. 
The object is, to drive the balls into certain 
holes in the ground, and the party that does so I 
the soonest, or with the fewest number of \ 
strokes, wins the game. 

The Golf Club is generally made of some 
tough wood, such as beech, and as it turns 
upwards is planed off to adapt itself to the 
handle, to which it is partly glued and tightly ( 
corded down. They vary in length from three to 



13i THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 

four feet, according to the height and length of arm 
of the player. The handle is generally bound with 
list, velvet, or cord ; and in addition to the face of the 
club it is sometimes further secured by a piece of 
bone or ivory, about an inch thick. Clubs, however, 
vary according to circumstances, and the nature of 
the ground. 

The Golf Ball is made of stout leather, being first 
well soaked in hot water, and sewed together, and 
then turned inside out, leaving a small opening by 
which it is stuffed full with feathers. When the 
leather dries it contracts into a hard ball which should 
not be larger than an egg, but not circular as an or- 
dinary ball. 



HOCKEY, OE CLUB. 



This is a favourite game in the north of England. 
Two or more parties form sides, and the object is to 
drive the ball (a wooden one) over the bounds, which 
are generally marked out at about forty or fifty 



HOCKEY. 135 

yards. The best place for it to be played is in a by 
road, not too wide, with a hedge or palings on each 
side ; and the party that first sends the ball over the 
bounds, wins the game ; either party sending it over 
the side bounds, loses the game. The clubs are formed 
according to the taste and fancy of the 
player. Some boys prefer one with a stout, 
knobby handle, and others, again, like those 
with more curve at the stroke; but when one 
is got to answer the purpose, it is valuable 
to the owner. The best way is to select 
one from some wood or hedge, and have 
as little cutting or making about it as. 
possible. 



136 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



THE SUCKEE. 



This is a very simple toy, and easily made. Take 
a piece of leather, and cut it 
perfectly round, about the 
size of the palm of your hand; 
make a small hole through 
the centre, just large enough 
to insert within it a piece of 
fine cord, about four or five 
feet in length ; at the end in- 
side the sucker tie a knot, 
and to the other end tie a 
piece of wood five inches long, 
for the handle. When completed, soak the leather 
for some time in water till it is sufficiently pliable, 
and take a smooth stone and press down the leather 
upon it with your foot ; underneath the sucker a 
vacuum is formed, and by lifting the string, the ex- 
ternal air pressing on all sides of your sucker, you will 
be able to carry a considerable weight. 




Irarikal f ugte + 



Many of the best puzzles have* no doubt been in- 
vented by captives, to wile away the time of a long 
and dreary imprisonment ; thus does the misery of a 
few frequently conduce to the amusement of many. 
A good puzzle requires considerable thought, calcula- 
tion, patience, and management. It is sometimes 
highly amusing to watch the progress of any one at- 
tempting to perform a puzzle for the first time ; to see 
him elated with hope when he thinks he is doing it so 
cleverly, when you know he is farther off the desired 
end than when he actually began. And it is equally 
laughable to witness his increasing despair as he finds 
himself getting more and more involved, when you are 
fully aware, by a single happy turn, how easily he 
might terminate his troubles. 

The Chinese Cross. 
Procure six pieces wood, bone, or metal, made 



138 



THE BOYS OWN TOY-MAKER. 




of the same length as No. 6 in the adjoining figure, 

and each piece of the 
same size as No. 7. It 
is required to construct 
a cross with six arms, 
from these pieces, and 
H in such a manner that 
2 3 4 5 6 i it shall not be displaced 
when thrown upon the floor. The shaded parts of 
each figure represent the parts that are cut out of the 
wood; and each piece marked a is supposed to be fac- 
ing the reader, while the pieces marked b are the 
right side of each piece turned over towards the left, 
so as to face the reader ; No. 7 represents the end 
of each piece of wood, &c, and is given to shew the 
dimensions. 

To make the Chinese Gross. — Place Nos. 1 
together, as in fig. 1 ; hold them together with 
your finger and thumb of the left hand hori- 
zontally, and with the square hole to the right ; 
push No. 3 — placed in the same position facing 
yon (a) in No. 4 — through the opening at k, 
and slide it to the left at A, so that the profile 
of the pieces should be as in fig. 2. Now push No. 4 
partially through the space from below upwards, as 
seen in fig. 2. Place No; 5 crossways upon the part 




PRACTICAL PUZZLES. 



139 



Fig. 3. 



b, so that the point R is directed upwards to the right 

hand side; then push No. 4 quite 

through, and it will he in the posi 

tion shewn by the 

dotted lines in fig. 2. 

All that now remains 

is to push No. 6, which 

is the key, through 

the opening M, and 
the cross is completed as in fig. 3. 





The Chinese Puzzle. 



This puzzle, being one for the purpose of construct- 
ing different figures by arranging 
variously shaped pieces of card or 
wood in certain ways, requires no 
separate explanation. Cut out of 
very stiff cardboard — or thin maho- 
gany, which is decidedly preferable 
— seven pieces, in shape like the annexed figures, and 
bearing the same proportion to each other ; one piece 
must be made in the shape of fig. 1, one of fig. 2, and 
one of fig. 3, and two of each of the other figures. 




140 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



The combinations of which these figures are suscep- 
tible are almost infinite, and we subjoin a representa- 
tion of a few of the most curious. It is to be borne 




in mind, that all the pieces of which the puzzle con- 
sists must be employed to form each figure. 



PRACTICAL PUZZLES. 



141 



The Maze or Labyrinth. 




This Maze is a correct ground plan of one in the 
gardens of the Palace of Hampton Court. No legend- 
ary tale is attached to it of which we are aware ; but 
its labyrinthine walks occasion much amusement to 
the numerous holiday parties who frequent the palace 
grounds. The puzzle is to get into the centre, where 
seats are placed under two lofty trees, and many are 
the disappointments experienced before the end is 
attained ; and even then the trouble is not over, it 
being quite as difficult to get out as to get in. 



142 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



The Cardboard Puzzle. 



Take a piece of cardboard or leather, of the shape 
and measurement indicated by the dia- 
gram ; cut it in such a manner that you 
yourself may pass through it, still keep- 
ing it in one piece. 

To cut the Cardboard Puzzle. Double 
the cardboard or leather lengthways 
down the middle, and then cut first to the right, 
nearly to the end (the narrow way), and then to the 
left, and so on to the end of the card ; then open it, 
and cut down the middle, except the two ends. The 



3 


.INCHES 


Cn 

Z 

O 

x 

n 
in 




diagram shows the proper cuttings. By opening the 
cardboard or leather, a person may pass through it. 



PRACTICAL PUZZLES. 



143 



Moving the Knight oyer all the Squares 
alternately. 




Let Black Queen's Book's square count 1 (as in 
tlie above diagram) ; Black King's Book, 8 ; and count 
all the other squares in the same way, from 9 to 64. 
Place the Knight upon Black King's Book's square 3, 
and move as follows :— 23, 40, 55, 61, 51, 57, 42, 25, 
10, 4, 14, 24, 39, 56, 62, 52, 58, 41, 26, 9, 3, 13, 7, 
22, 32, 47, 64, 54, 60, 50, 33, 18, 1, 11, 5, 15, 21, 6, 
16, 31, 48, 63, 53, 59, 49 ? 34, 17, 2, 12, 27, 44, 38, 
28, 43, 37, 20, 35, 45, 30, 36, 18, 29, and 46. It may 
be well to chalk the figures on the board as a guide, 
until the feat is understood. 



14:4 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



The Accommodating Square. 




Take eight squares of 
card, and divide four of 
them from corner to cor- 
ner, so that you will have 
twelve pieces ; form a 
square with them when 
put together. 




The Divided Garden. 

A person has a square plot of 
ground having a house built upon 
it, which he lets out to various ten- 
ants ; he was desirous of dividing it 
so that each of the 
five inmates should 



have an equal share of the garden, 
and two trees. He contrived it in 
this way. 




PRACTICAL PUZZLES. 



147 



to contain three circles, without cutting into any of 
them ; and the result will be as follows : — 





o 


o 


o 




o 


o 

° 





o 


o 


o 



The Puzzle of Fourteen. 

Cut out fourteen pieces 
of paper, card, or wood, of 
the same size and shape as 
those shewn in the cut, and 
then form an oblong with them, as in the following 
cut : — 





148 



THE BOY S OWN TOY MAKER. 




The Card Square. 

Cut out eight pieces 
of card or paper of the 
shape of a, four of b, 
and four of c, and of 
proportionate sizes, and 



with them form a square. 





a 


A 


a 




a 




I \ 




(JU 


\ c / 






X-\ 






\ b / 




a 


V 


a 


\ 



Puzzle of the Two Fathers. 



Two fathers have each a square 
of land. One father divides his so 
as to reserve to himself one-fourth 
as in the adjoining cut. The other 
divides his so as to reserve to him- 
self one-fourth in the form of a tri- 



PRACTICAL PUZZLES. 



149 



angle. They have each four sons, 
and each divides the remainder 
among his sons in such a way that 
each son will share equally with his 
"brother, and in a similar shape. 
How were they divided ? 

The first father divided the land as in fig. 1. The 

Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 




2 




4 




3 


~] 


4 




A 




second father divided it as in fig. 2. The different 
figures represent the several sons' portions. 



The Nuns. 

Twenty-four nuns were arranged in a convent by 
night by a sister, to count nine each 
way, as in the opposite cut. Four of 
the party went out to take a walk by 
moonlight. How were the remainder 
placed in the square, so as still to count 



150 



THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



nine each way ? The four who went out returned 
bringing with them four friends ; how were they all 
placed so as to count nine each way, and thus deceive 
the sister as to whether there were 20, 24, 28, or 32 
in the square ? 



20 





The Double-headed Puzzle. 




Cut out of a piece of wood the circular form of 
fig. 1, and four others like fig. 2 ; the puzzle is in 
getting them all into the cross-shaped slit, until they 
look like fig. 3. After which, arrange them side by 
side in the short arms of the cross, draw out the 
centre piece, and the rest will easily follow. The 
reverse of the same process will put them back again. 



PRACTICAL PUZZLES. 



151 



Cutting out a Cross. 



a □ 



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cfb 



Cut out of a single 

piece of paper, and 

with one cut of the 

scissors, a perfect cross, 

and all the other forms 

of the diagram. 

Take a piece of 

writing paper, about 

three times as long as it is broad, say six inches by 

two. Fold the upper corner down, as fig. 1 ; then 

fold the other up- 
per corner over 
the first, and it 
will appear as fig. 
2 ; you next fold 
the paper in half 
lengthwise, and 
it will appear us 
fig. 3. Then the 

last fold is made lengthwise, also in the middle of the 

paper, and it will make fig. 4, which, when cut through 

with the scissors in the direction of the dotted line, 

will make all the forms mentioned. 





152 



THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER. 



Another Cross Puzzle. 

Cut out of cardboard three pieces of the shapes 
and numbers following, and with them make a cross. 



en 



& 



u dj 







/ 




/ 






1 


1 






/ 




2 


3 





The Glass and Coins. 

Place a sixpence in the bottom of a glass, and over 
the latter put a half-crown. The puzzle is 
to remove the small coin from beneath the 
larger one without touching either of the 
coins or touching or upsetting the glass. 
To do this you must blow with consider- 
able force down one side of the glass, upon 
the edge of the half-crown. The sixpence 
will be expelled by the force of the air, and 
will fall either upon the upper surface of the half- 
crown, or upon the table. 




PRACTICAL PUZZLES. 



153 



Another Glass Puzzle. 

Place a sixpence between two half-crowns, and lay 
upon the larger coins a glass. Kemove 
the sixpence without displacing either 
of the half-crowns or the glass. 

To do this a table-cloth is neces- 
sary ; for this reason the trick is best 
suited to the breakfast or dinner-table. 
Having placed the glass and coins as in the above cut, 
simply scratch the table-cloth with the nail of the 
fore-finger in the direction you wish the sixpence to 
move, and it will answer directly. 




THE END, 



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